raffaele Mastrovincenzo

Chardonnay from the grand cru of Choully on the village Mont-Aignu, grand cru of Avize in the village Chapelle, Grand cru Oger in the village Terre de Noel and the last from the grand cru Le Mesnil sur Oger the villages Chetillon and Ailerrand all vinified separately in oak barrels to improve vitality, elegance and structure. Also a touch of Pinot noir just 5% in the blend to give a the final glass roundness and character. Only 6 grams of residual sugar at the bottling. This is the best champagne of the NM Duval - Leroy only made in exceptional years as 1990, 1995, 1996. Yellow gold colour with extremely fine bubbles, mineral flavors, very aromatic, floral, lemon candy, hints of orange and brioche, vanilla coffee and halzenut in undertone with butterscotch in the final, creamy and stylish alternating aroma of yeast, oaky and citrus element. Duval Leroy is located in Vertus in the heart of " La Cote des Blanc" cultivated 200 hectares,,, massive number. Two family come t

Saumur blanc appellation is a Chenin blanc in the district of Anjou in the Loire valley region. Chenin Blanc also know as Pineau de la Loire need to be at least 80% in the appellation Saumur blanc. Soil consistent on loose gravel, close to the bank of the Loire river you find this yellowish fragile sedimentary rock formed during the Turonian era roughly 90 millions years ago called Tuffeau. A combination of sand and marine fossils with the gravel character makes this rock extremely porous, absorbing water rapidly and releasing it slowly. This well drainage is very suitable for the growing of vines, so the vines can draw excess of water and hold reserves that stop the vines from shutting down entirely during drier periods. The Foucault family's "Clos Rougeard" own 10 ha of vines in Saumur-Champigny and produce three red cuvees and one white. Clos Rougeard is a cult estate that produces arguably the finest Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc in the  world. The Foucault brot

In the center of Touraine district lies a beautiful appellation called Vouvray which celebrating the versatile of Chenin Blanc. The Vouvray designation AOC was made in 1936, cover the commune of Vouvray in the department of Indre et Loire, and the neighboring villages of Chancay, Noizay, Reugny, Rochecorbon, Sainte-Radegonde-en-Tourraine, Vernou-sur-Brenne and part of Parcay- Meslay. The appellation regulations dictate that the wines must consist almost entirely of Chenin Blanc but in theory can contain a small amount of Arbois grapes. Vouvray can be affected by the soil; clay soil may tend towards a fruity flavors, flinty clay soil may taste more mineral. Also siliceous-clay and limestone clay soil embrace the different of Terroir. The cool climate ensure good acidity, which balance the distinctive character of the Chenin fruit profile and acid structure and the mineral quality are impart by the soil. The vineyard are subject, in a good years, to botrytis cynera, the old responsib

Vincent Dancer is one of the most exciting young winemakers to emerge in Burgundy in recent years. Vincent started in 1996 cultivated his vineyard with love and care in respect of the mother Nature. Only 5,5 hectare of vineyard owned by this young vigneron of the Cote de Beaune in all superb site. Tete Du Clos a premeir cru on Chassagne Montrachet. La Romanee in Chassagne also. Vincent should label them as Morgeot. In Mersault Vincent Dancer make great wines as premier cru Les Perrieres and with the lieu-dit Les Grand Charrons next to the premier cru Goutte d'Or. As a grand cru he made Chevalier Montrachet which belong only in the village of Puligny Montrachet. His tiny estate in Chassagne-Montrachet in a decade has climbed the hierarchy of white wine mans of the Cote de Beaune. His approach is focus in develop an artisan approach of is business. In the first years the production was very low 4,000 bottles and some wines was sold to commercial companies.  In 200

Friuli Venezia Giulia Carso Doc Red, iron rich soil with a limestone content leads the wines an acidity characteristic  and mineral notes. Vitovska seems to be the queen of this special terroir a crossing of Malvasia Bianca Lunga, Prosecco Tonda and Terrano a red which come from the Refosco Istriano Family. Vitovska is a thicker skinned variety that can withstand cold winters, summer draughts and the strong wind of the Bora. Zidarich is a small producer in the small town Prepotto only 24.000 bottle on only 8 ha of vineyard. His Winery looks like a cathedral  sculpted from the hard rock a perfect meeting of nature and human ingenuity. The wines are very particular and strongly traditional. The whites are made crushing the berry and leaving the juice with own skin during the cuvaison (fermenting must).  A true craftsman grower with a real understanding of the Carso terroir. The Vitovska form 2009 was cloudy golden straw yellow. Floral and mineral with citrus zest and candied or

                                                     Photo from Agrapart website Was my birthday not long ago and I had the pleasure to drink this beautiful champagne from Avize the champagne grower is Agrapart  in the Cote blanc, they make outstanding champagne, 6 styles in total: -7 cru brut:  made in chardonnay 100%  in 7 different villages which represent the domaine of the house. They are: Madreuil, Oger, Bergeres les Vertus, Avize, Cremant, Oiry and Avernay Val D'or. Normally the wine is an assemblage of two vintage which are previously aged in barrel with the malolactic done completely and 3 years on lees. -Terroirs extra brut: 100% chardonnay, malolactic completetely and 4 years on lees with elevage in oak before la liquere de tirage. Two vintage blended together. -Complantee extra brut Grand Cru: cepage are Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Blanc, Arbanne, Petit Meslier and Chardonnay only on the Grand Cru Avize. 4years on lees with 5 g. of sugar in the Dosage.

Emmanuel Brochet Villers aux Noeuds . R.M. 2,5 ha Pinot noir, Meniuer and Chardonnay Bottles produced annually 6.080. Located beyond the city of Reims, in direction for Epernay there is a tiny village Villers aux Noudes where he works and lives-Emauelle Brochet a small vigneron in Champagne. The vineyard are training organically with AB certified, but you will not find written on the label. Small traditional press are used "Coquard" (the wooden square base). All his Cuvèe born and mature in wood for over a year, but the tone is never woody too obvious with an incredible balance acid structure. First vintage was 2002, but be careful, because it can rely on vines planted in 1962 and 1986. His millesime 2002 with an elavage on wood 11 months, show bright colour with golden hue, elegant fine bubble note of pistachio, brioche, apple and citrus zest a note of vanilla really clean and fresh on the palate with a tension acid… Linear and energetic. Love Champagne

Nicolas Joly's Chateau de la Roche aux Moines 7 hectares of one of the most celebrated Savennieres producer which has an AOC on his own as a monopole Coulee-de-Serrant. The father of the biodynamic in France started back in the 1981, which today is still a leading spokes person for the "trendy" of Biodynamic around the world as a leader of the association Le Reinassance des Appelations in english called Return the terroir. Since 2006, Virginie his daughter takes a position as an oenologist in her fathers winery, she has contributed to the production of more recent vintage.  Savennieres  as i wrote previous on this blog is a great Appelation in the Loire valley in France just in the  Anjou section.  Savennieres is also called the kingdom of dry white wines; the AOC area is limited to the three communes to the south of Angers, on the right bank of the Loire, Savennieres, Bouchemaine and La Possonniere. There are two distinct denominations within the appellation La Ro

Yarra Yering Dry red wine N°1 2005 Cabernet ° Merlot ° Malbec ° Petit Verdot Honestly I never understand cabernet red wine, first are very expansive, second are very hard to enjoy due their tannin structure and powerful. However last night a friend of mine from Yarra Valley let me try this wine from his personal cellar; we did the tasting blind. A first glance the purity of the fruit the smooth tannin the oaky character as moka, coconut and chocolate the slight oxidative component the hint of brett, farmyard, forest floor let me conclude the tasting, a spanish wine with cabernet into. I said this is Vega Sicilia or some good outstanding Rioja, I was definitely in the old world truly enjoyment wine. Black cherry, rasberry jam, cook beetroot, dusty, dark flesh plum and tomato leaf. Lots of pleasant oak sweet spice and vanilla. Lovely tar and charcoal minerality. We discovery the bottle and bang Cabernet blend from Yarra Valley, "Yarra Yering" awesome. I know I'm shit

The small village of Volnay one of the most sorted Pinot Noir from the Cote de Beaune in between Mersault and Pommard mostly compared from the Chambolle Musigny of the nord of Burgundy for is finesse and elegance coming from similar soil of Chambolle, high active chalk content and low clay. 115 hectares of premier cru vineyard 35 in all with the best premier cru: Les Taillepieds Clos des Chenes Champans Cailleretes Santenots Mikulski is a polish guy with an attitude to do a great wine in the Cote de Beaune start in the early 1990  with this incredible non classic label in homemade writing, so cool. Mr. Mikulski is a non interventionist  guy, essentially organic a "lutte raisonee" he balance his work around the health of the soil and the biodiversity of the vineyard. His Santenots du Milieu from 2009 was rich and masculine lots of red fruit some mature and sour, dry branches autumn tree, mushroom character, forest floor, red apple skin and smoky meat aroma; with s

St Aubin is a burgandy lovers paradise, located between Chassagne and Puligny Montrachet. Only 500 acres which is almost white wine production with less than 25 percent of red wine made, which are not perfumed and complex when you compare with Volnay-Pommard area. The best sites in St Aubin are  En Remilly,  Chatenière,  Les Murgers des Dents de Chien.   Les Murgers is arguably the village’s best vineyard: very stony and chalky.  There is very little soil here, and the vines can suffer in difficult years; but when the grapes ripen fully, they give the most powerful and elegant wines of St Aubin.  En Remilly is slightly less stony and the wines can be a touch broader.  The same is with La Chatenière, a steep vineyard with a fine southerly exposure. One of the producers I really like in the area is Domaine Hubert Lamy, along with Marc  Colin which are perhaps the best producers in this  appellation.  For many years, the domaine production was sold to the negoce, but sinc

 Lalou Bize Leroy… Perhaps the most dynamic and important lady on the wine business in the world; a major shareholder of D.R.C. as well as owner of Domaine and Maison Leroy and the owner of Domaine D'Auvenay. She began her career as an intern in a Domaine in Gevrey Chambertin, learning how to make wine and how to taste. In 1955 she start running Maison Leroy and in 1974 Lalou also took over her father role's as director of D.R.C.. In conflict of interest in 1992 left the role as director at Domaine de la Romanee Conti at her sister Pauline and also Domaine Leroy lost the distribution of the wine of D.R.C. for owning some expansive Clos or village in the Cote D'or; her version of Richerbourg and Romanee St Vivian seen as competitor in some eyes in D.R.C. Lalou in Domaine Leroy was among the first of Burgundy big name to choose biodynamic viticulture. Nicholas Joly in Savennieries help her to understand the philosophy of Biodinamique culture and speed her up on the changeov

Recently I open this beautiful wine from Morey Sant Denis, "Clos des Monts Luisant" made from 100% Aligotè grapes in the heart of Cote de Nuits by Domaine Ponsot a monopole with great integrity and terroir driving. Aligotè is normally see as secondary grape varieties but Ponsot made with this clos a queen of white burgundy production, made with ancient vines make an outstanding wine to buried in your cellar . Ponsot considers biodynamics to be a dream, as from a practical point of view it is close to impossible to practice in a pure way. The vine are relatively short pruned - son not so many bunches - spraying is kept to minim and everything is harvest by hand. Ponsot is almost the last vineyard to be harvested. Jean Marie Ponsot was also one of the pioneers of the clonal selection of Pinot Noir in Burgundy during 1960, many of the most respected Pinot Noir clones (113, 114, 115, 667) were selected from the estate Clos de la Roche. Ponsot doesn't use new oak, preferrin

La Stoppa is an ancient winery located in Piacenza area in the region of Emilia Romagna all the vineyard are in the hill of the Val Trebbiolo on top of the river Trebbia. In 1973 the Pantaleoni family bought the property, and today the company is run by Elena Pantaleoni and Giulio Armani the winemaker and also owner of the winery Denavolo; all the vineyards are managing under organic farming and certified by "Ente Suolo e Salute". The property account on 30 hectare of vineyards dedicated around different grapes varieties indigenous in the area as Ortrugo, Trebbiano, Malvasia di Candia Aromatica are the white and the red are Bonarda and Barbera. The soil consist of heavy clay and limestone. The climate are very hot in the period of growing season with a daily cool nights which help the wine to rest and extend the growing season and also help retain freshness on the wine "acidity" and the loss of volatile aroma. A minimal intervention approach is taken in the c

Barolo a DOCG wine produced in the northern italian region of Piedmont, made with Nebbiolo grape variety which are Lampia, Michet and Rosè clones. Clusters are dark blue and grayish with abundant wax that dresses the grapes. Their form is lengthened, pyramidal with small spherical grapes. Compared to other grape varieties Nebbiolo is one of the first varieties to bud and last varieties to ripen, with harvest taking place in mid to late October. In some vintage, other producers are able to pick and complete fermentation of their Barbera and Dolcetto before Nebbiolo is ready. Barolo tend to be rich, deeply concentrated with pronounced tannins and acidity. The wines are almost always light in color varying from ruby to garnet in their youth to more brick and orange hues as they age. Like Pinot Noir, Barolo are never opaque; every time brilliant and translucent, tar, rose and violet are common notes. The soil area is divided by two different types; Tortonian soil and Helvetian soil. Tor

Hi I know I already reviewed this wine a year ago, that was back in Italy, I tasted this again last night in the south hemisphere where I'm actually leaving now in Melbourne. The wine as soon I opened it was so closed and dirty which my mind though was off, very vinegar balsamic on the nose; i sip a bit and felt the tannin and fruit in my palate and in my mind I said "you need time". After a couple of hours the wine was pure red fruit, amazing concentration. Notes of medicinal herbs and mint, ripe cherries, blueberries, rose and violet. Great structure ripe tannin. A superb wine. Teoblado Cappellano passed away on February 21 - 2009, with his unique philosophy and his meticulous winemaking a legend in Barolo was the exceptional artisanal grower with great personality. He banished everyone that wanted to score his wine with numbers, he loves his review without score. He was a president of the influential "Vini Veri" group and also leader of Italy sustai

Pommard Premier Cru "Les Pèzerolles" 2006 The Domaine de Montille is a family winery located in Burgundy in Volnay back to the 18 century. They farm 20 hectare of vines, essentially Premeir cru and Grand cru in both Cote de Nuits and Cote de  Beaune covering 20 appellation; is one of this winery which tend to polarize people. Hubert the father of the family transmitted his love for Burgundy to the sons which currently manage the winery first to Etienne than to Alix. The brother and sister have taken the reins of the Domaine and love Burgundy and continue the philosophy Hubert started. Etienne vilifies the Pinot and Alix she look after the Chardonnay. Etienne is the one converted the total production of the domaine is an environmental friendly farming in 1985 they stopped to use fertilized and herbicide and the move to full organic farming in 1995 and the transit in Byodinamics in 2005. The Domaine is certified Ecocert Bio in 2012. Etienne also add at the wine a slightl

From the website of Pithon Paillè: The creation of a wine merchant business (négociant-eleveur) Jo Pithon’s dream has always been to set up a ‘négociant’ business, similar to those in Burgundy and the Rhone Valley, offering top quality wines grown on different terroirs. The idea of vinifying and aging wines made from the Chenin and Cabernet Franc grape using the different soil-types of the region was too tempting to resist... At the beginning of 2008, Jo Pithon and Isabelle Pithon, changed direction as only wine growers and decided to create a négociant-éleveur business with Joseph Paillé, Isabelle’s son, and Wendy Paillé, his wife, still retaining 5 hectares of their original estate, notably the famous Les Treilles, for they remain vignerons at heart! Now in 2013 the estate has grown to 13 hectares. The idea is to work hand in hand with growers, using predominantly Chenin and Cabernet Franc grapes. A work plan with vine growers have been created as follows : Careful selection of the

The Savennieres appellation begin in the west limit of the Angers commune. The vines spread west for approximately eight kilometers along the right bank of the Loire river encompassing the 3 commune of Epirè, Savennieres and la Possoniere. A series of plateaux which are essential small valleys running perpendicular down to the river and whose steep slopes offer a perfect south-west facing orientation. The plateaux of Epirè, Savennieres and la Possoniere are set up 2 km back from the river and are more open and exposed with vine, the appellation highest point, being an altitude of around 75 meters. The only permitted grape varieties is Chenin blanc, historically, the vines were propagated through massal-selection rather the using specific clones. The variability of massal-selection dictates that flowering is not homogeneous and therefore neither is the ripening; this ensures that in almost every vintage it is necessary for the wines to be picked in two or three passage, although in

MOUNT ETNA eurupted Last night I toured back to Italy. I bought in the morning a bottle of Etna Bianco by Biondi winery the Outis from 2009. The vines are cultivated in all Etna D.O.C. on sandy soil with volcanic origin, are planted to 600 meter to 1000 meter above sea level often an heroic viticulture. The ampelographic heritage is extremely interesting composed of centuries old vines such as Carricante  and Catarrato the two main grapes varieties used to produced the Etna bianco D.O.C. and Etna Bianco Superiore. The white Minella is rarer. The wine of Biondi have got the 3 varieties in different percentage with predominately Carricante. Gold in color a bit unclear with brilliant vivacity, a great viscosity for a white wine. Nose was citrus, lemon zest, orange blossom, acacia, flint, tufa and sandy some kernel and a touch of honey. Palate great mouthful, lovely intense minerality, tonic, wet stone, fossil marine, sapid and superb drinkability. Thanks to Etna, is the top!!!

Argentina has a winemaking history back some 450 years. Currently is thee fifth largest wine-producing country in the world. Argentina vineyards lies close to the Andes mountain 1500 Km from the province of Salta in the north to Rio Negro and Nequen in Patagonia. Historically because the heat, most vineyards were planted in pergola system, Know locally as Parral. This system lifted the grapes away from the searing heat close to the ground. The real problem disease of the vineyard is called Nematodes, tiny roundworms that live in the soil and feed on plant roots by puncturing the root tissue with hollow. Once the Nematodes sink this structure deep into the grape's root tissue, they suck out the plant's juices. Symptoms of Nematodes damage can sometimes be hard to positively identify because they can look like several other problems, such as too little or too much water, unsuitable temperatures, disease or the lack of proper nutrients. Once those important roots are d

Calabria south of Italy an incontaminated  region where the landscape is still married with mother nature. Recently I had the pleasure to drink a Mantonico grape juice from a very small boutique named L'acino. The wine was clear with medium intensity gold color day bright with a light amber rim with a fine viscosity. The nose show some developing character as dried chamomile, acacia and white blossom flowers, bruised apple and pear…. Minerality are quite high with dried stone, steely, wet leaves and floor, brown mushroom and a undertone of honey character. The acidity is high in balance with alcohol, body and flavor intensity mid palate was stony, mineral and complex with a very low tannin "polifenol" perception. Seemed like I was watching a Samuel Fuller movie, iconoclastic, idiosyncratic and almost a new wave punk attitude. Thanks to the owner Dino Briglio! Some shots of the slope of the winery of the Mantonico Pinto: Thanks to Naz to let me try the wine @