martedì 29 gennaio 2013


La Ferme de la Sansonnière

Mark Angeli and his wife only purchased these vineyards in 1990, 12 hectare of land. Different crops are involved across the property, 8 hectares are given to the vine and the rest are mixture of apple and olive trees, cereals and sunflowers to generate a steady supply of biodiversity on the land. Through the vineyards, chicken and beehives are involved to balance an organic treatment; the soil is ploughed by horses. The harvest is exclusive by hand, with several picking "tries" in different times in order to get the best ripeness and quality.
Located in the middle of Loira region in the Coteaaux du Layon in the Bonnezaux A.o.c. where most of the producers producing a sweet chenin blanc - Mark is coming out with some really interesting dry chenin blanc thus with the mention Vin de France.
I had his 2009 Les Fouchards, impressive white wine with hints of camomille, chai tea, melon, dark honey and spiciness compelling the bouquet. Long length and interminable finish on the palate.
Unfined and unfiltered, however the color is perfectly shining and bright in the glass, a masterpiece crash the fashion of natural wine full of volatile and oxidative color.
I did think while drinking to a contemporary trumpeter jazz player Wadada Leo Smith for the approach he has with the jazz and classic instrumental music, it's like Les Fouchards - so perfectly good as "conventional" winemaking but made in a real form, shaping the connection with soil, grape varieties and the personality of a good man... A wine for a deserted island or a forgotten cellar bottle it will surprise you.

sabato 26 gennaio 2013

Beaujolais 

Nowhere else anywhere produces wines with such a wonderful fruit, drinkability and refreshing acidity......

simply red Beaujolais is light and fruity:
Chiroubles:
the lightest
Broully:
the most fragrant
Fleurie:
the more floral
St Amour:
is spicy
Morgon:
can be quite tannic
Moulin A Vent:
the most ageworthy.

The classic vinification is semi carbonic maceration, this contributes to the fruit appeal to the wine; old oak can be used to good effect for aging; with that loosing the freshness and vibrant effect going towards  elegant note of Burgundy Pinot noir.
Rounded cherry fruit on the nose and palate. Ripe and beautiful balance Fleurie style.
Fresh fruit with good structure and balance, with a fresh finish. Medium weight. Broully style.
Good structure balance with ripe fruit. plenty of potential. Moulin-a- Vent.


Loved these wines....

lunedì 21 gennaio 2013

Slovenian wines
Slovenian, an old country which is producing wine from a century ago.
Well known for the long maceration with the skin contact in white grapes varieties, this practice has been made to give the wines characteristic and personality; most of the artisan think that in the skin there is the expression of the soil "Terroir". The protein on skin as anthocyanis, flavonoids and catechin acting as powerful antioxidants part of the family of tannins; also the tannins are a natural preservative in wine.
In this part of the world most of the producers have great respect of the soil and a excellent ethic, they all working in organic farming so their wine are quite healthy but a bit different from the conventional winemaking, so sometimes you'll find unpleasant odor and excess of "volatile" (level of acetic acid present in a wine).
Two of the wines I liked in my drinking time:
Branko & Vasja Cotar from Komen in Gorjansko - i had the Drazna from 05, red made with Terrano grapes varieties, an indigenous varieties from Slovenian, part of the family of Refosco del Penducolo Rosso most popular in Friuli region in Italy, Merlot and Cabernet.
The wine was red purple not deeply in colour, the bouquet focused on red fruit and earthiness as dirty mushroom some smokiness, there was nice length and lovely structure - a medium body red.
In the spring 2011 Cotar and other 3 producers established a cooperative called Simbiosa in the mean to respect the wines in a natural manner with Mlecnik, Klinec and Terpin in Italy.
http://www.simbiosa.it

The second wine was from Grace winery made with Rebula grape also called in Italy Ribolla from 09, i don't have much information about this producer (was brought by friends of mine); however the wine was really good. Orange in color, the legs were beautiful, orange zest, candied almond, honeysuckle and bergamot were so pleasant on my nose. Palate showed roundness and velvety characteristic, precise and  long finish - we had it with middle east food, was awesome.





2005 Trebbiano D'Abruzzo Emidio Pepe 

In the country side of Abruzzo in a small town called Torano is situated a family vineyard with 15 hectares around 400 meter above sea level. The owner of this small grower is Emidio Pepe with the collaboration of his daughters producing a really nice wine with organic methods also applying some byodinamic principle.
It is all based in the perfect balance between time and nature with the collaboration of the "contadino" craftsmen.
The soil is  predominately clay and mixed with calcareous, the system training is called Tendone D'Abruzzo - see the picture below:
Last week i tasted one of his Trebbiano D'Abruzzo from 05 - a very gold color flashing amber, nuttiness, candy aroma, chamomile and hint of Corbezzolo Honey was present on my nose.. The alcohol was warm with the potential expression of a hot vintage, smoothness  and complexity refined my palate. There were just a bit of volatile, but was hidden from the smokiness i found on my palate. Was a great white wine with 8 years on the shoulder. A Macon from center Italy.






martedì 15 gennaio 2013


The king of the Italian white wines

Most of the experts of wine may think Trebbiano grapes are a simple grapes varieties; every time refer to Ugni Blanc from France - well known used for distillation. However there is one artisan in Abruzzo in the middle of Italy called "Valentini" which produce a Trebbiano d'Abruzzo, an outstanding white wine with great longevity. I have been drinking lots of vintages of this producer. In the last couple of weeks, i drank a few bottles of the latest release 2007, vintage refer to '77, '87 (two gold vintages from Valentini)! '07 in Laureto Aprutino in the country side Pescara, town in Abruzzo..was a dry hot summer which made Francesco Paolo Valentini to harvest earlier, at the end of August thus to keep a notable acidity on the berries with a pH around 3, similar if you were going to make a sparkling wine. Therefore this technique "early vintage" slowed down the maloactic and gave time to refine the wine. Colour, a little cloudy and a little bit of cO2 - so a synonyms for evolution. Nose, fascinated me - beautiful minerality with a hint of nuttiness, chamomile and oolong tea, bergamot and brioche. Palate, impressive - very nervous with beautiful freshness, a malty layer of taste on my tongue with an impressive length, makes me try and re try and re try again... death by taste, outstanding! Container, aging - very old big oak, very minimal intervention. In this Christmas time, of the Valentini wines i tried (5) one of which was corked - i cried that day. But, a friend of mine opened the Montepulciano red 2001, the last vintage produced of the late Edoardo Valentini (the father of Francesco Paolo Valentini). The best wine gift, i won't review because it is too good to share.
PS.
2007 Trebbiano d'Abruzzo released after '08 and '09 because his thought was that '07 was too young, not ready for release.

lunedì 7 gennaio 2013

Icon of Barolo

Beppe Rinaldi is the owner of a mythical winery in the middle of Barolo town. In the last few years his daughter Marta has been assisting him with the same passion and savoir-faire. They have 7 hectares of vineyard between the commune of Barolo and Novello. Since the beginning they have been inspired by organic farming, the wine of Rinaldi has pure expression of terroir and is produced in a very traditional way. Severe attention in the vineyard, vinification in "tini", i.e. open vats oak, long maceration with skin contact, aging in big Slavonian oak "a pure expression of terroir of Nebbiolo in Langhe". Recently i tasted his Barolo Cannubi S.Lorenzo Ravera 2008, thus a great experience with a beautiful young colour! The nose; black pepper, licorice, raspberry, plum, with a jam characteristic. Mouthful structure; beautiful freshness, lovely acidity and an interesting young tannin. Excellent balance, a great young Barolo which ages for 42months in Slavonian oak, drinkable right now and for the next 20years. score: 99 out of 100
Cheers!
Rinadli produces to different Barolo, from different vineyards blended together - 
1. Barolo Brunate Le Coste, bottlse - at least 10,000
2. Barolo Cannubi S.Lorenzo Ravera, bottles - at least 6,000


mercoledì 2 gennaio 2013

Cappellano or better Teobaldo Cappellano

Serralunga D'alba the most important cru for Nebbiolo grape in my simple opinion, Cappellano one of the top growers. 
I really enjoyed the night pre nye "The Piè Rupestris 2004" a great Barolo with complexity and elegance. A multi layer of scents and texture, bright color with a vivid Terracotta shimmer on the edge; the nose started with a small petal rose, wild raspberry, violet and anise. Moving to the length... was incredible with the fruit coming through with the company of balsamic herbs, licorice and candy. Long tannin, mature and precise. All his wines mature in big Slavonian oak so a tremendous traditionalist. We decanted it a for few hours before drinking and thus a great experience!
Teobaldo Cappellano is quite an important person to know in the italian world of wine in Barolo as producer and a person, well known in the "Consorzio of Barolo" and as a president "Enoteca regionale del Barolo"...
 Moreover he is the mentor of the association Viniveri in Italy where only producers producing in same manner respecting mother nature can be part of.
All his wines are made to respect the terroir the indigenous grapes and are not overpowering by the container used, very interesting is the Barolo Chinato an aromatizide Nebbiolo wine.
His wines are:
Dolcetto d’Alba
Barbera d’Alba
Nebiolo d’Alba (con una sola B!)
Barolo Pié Rupestris
Barolo Pié Franco
Barolo Chinato

On the same night i saw a collective personal of an italian artist called "Aligi Sassu" and i loved this painting, it was the shade of the color and also the means of the painting which symbolized his break up with the belief in the catholic church through the second world war... give me a connection with the wine in the night.... so I share here