domenica 22 febbraio 2015

the lady of Pinot Noir Madame Ledru

RM (Récoltant Manipulant): A grower-producer who makes Champagne from estate-grown fruit. 95% of the grapes must originate in the producer’s own vineyards.
This is a small production in Ambonnay a grand cru village; here there is a lady Marie Noelle Ledru which is the exception of the male dynamism and humble vigneron in our collectively imaginary. 
This is a story a beautiful Recoltant manipulant in the Montagne de Reims knew for the her expression of Pinot noir. Everything start on 1980 when she get control of 6ha of vines in Ambonnay and extra hectare in Bouzy completely alone control every thing from vines management to vinification. However currently she things is too old to controlled such a big property and reduce the property in only 2hectares of vines which are 40 years old, the best of her selection. She does a Lutte Raisonnee viticulture whit out any label of certified organic farming. No chemical are add to the soil.
She is a real hero because every step is done with her hands a proper Artisan. Vinification only in stainless steel "vin Claire". Malo is always welcome and waiting with patience, she needs to balance the racy crispy acid structure and the powerful of the terroir she work with. The champagne rest on lees from 3 to 6 years and all the process from Remouage, Degorgement and Dosage is done by her hands "rock n roll". Her top wine is called Cuvée du Goultè which gave to her the name the lady of Pinot noir. A selection of the best of her parcels made with the hearth of of the cuvée the means of Goultè; the Cour de cuvée.
Yesterday I had her extra brut, so very dry style NV first level of Ledru production with15% of Chardonnay. Austere with crunchy acidity and minerality, the Chardonnay play a big role on the nose give that apple hints and acid on the palate; great length and lovely complexity is a good real wine to know her for the NV style.
I love this Small grower in Champagne which they are putting this wine in another dimension respecting the terroir and bring it on the glass rather than the big company make a style wine. #mineralwine#champagne #ambonnay #marienoelleledru #bouzy#pinotnoir #remouage #dosage

venerdì 13 febbraio 2015

Koheler Ruphrecht Saumagen Grand Cru

Koheler Ruphrecht in the town of Kallstadt in the Mittlehardt of Pfalz; one of the oldest producer of the region.
In the vineyard, no irrigation, fertilizers or herbicides are ever used, and systemic treatments against pests or fungal illness are kept to a minimum. In the cellar, long spontaneous fermentations occur in large, old German oak barrels with extended lees contact. Nothing is ever added or subtracted to the wine, and sulfur is only added moderately after alcoholic fermentation and before bottling.
The Grand Cru of the K.R. Is Saumagen, which translates to pig's stomach, is named after the shape of the vineyard and also happens to be the region's most famous local dish. The soils here are heavy in chalky marl and full of tiny individual limestones that reflect heat onto the grapes. Koehler-Ruphrecht's 4h are on the original South-East facing slope. A small part of the Saumagen is designated as Terra Rossa, with the limestone taking a red hue due to a heavy presence of iron oxide.
The other importan cru is Steinacker characterized by chalk and sandstone. The Rieslings and Scheurebe grown here tend have residual sweetness. The last one is Annaberg is the youngest vineyard site and characterized by a high proportion of sandstone. All grapes are hand harvested, with the team doing up to five passes each vintage to pick at optimal maturity.
The wine are stony-gingery, dense, cheese and almost chalky. Acidity is always the focus of their wine despite the residual sugar is mask quite lovely and hidden by the freshness of the Riesling; a warmly satisfying old-fashioned bigness of flavor that’s masculine the wine.
Ps. Very important from the vintage 2013 K.R. Would be out from the VDP Association they feel their way to change the law, misleading the quality of German wine.#mineralwine #pfalz #samaugen #steinacker