Natural Burgundy

Bathonian limestone from the middle Jurassic era as found through the Cote D'Or with a flat piece of stone calcite aragonite. Small berries of Gamay quite old vines on Cordon de Royat training system. Fermentation in conical wooden vats after 11months on lees without racking. Bottled using nitrogen without sulfur dioxide. Looks more Cote de Nuits than Beaujolais, red fruits sour and fresh, minerals elements with powerful energy and kaleidoscopic complexity...
Today the Clos des Vignes du Mayne is managed by Julien Guillot. This Clos was registered by the monks in 910. Peter- Julien’s grandfather purchased the vineyard in 1954 and is thought to be a pioneer in the field of additive-free natural wines. The 7-hectare Clos set in beautiful surroundings-comprises 3 parcels planted with 3 indigenous grape varieties: Pinot Noir, Gamay, and Chardonnay. In 1998, Julien Guillot took over this huge heritage with passion, a great deal of conviction and precision. He carried on the old traditions but also introduced biodynamic methods.
Small organic-biodynamic Domaine in the Hautes Cotes de Beaune, Burgundy.
Pinot Noir from 50 to 25 yr old, horse-plowed vines planted in south-facing clay, fossilized sea shell, multi-colored marble, sandstone, and limestone pebble soils. Farmed, harvested, and bottled by Morgane and Christian in Meloisey, the heart of “Hautes Côtes” Burgundy. Natural from vineyard to bottle. Whole cluster, natural yeast ferment, neutral wood, wooden basket press, and no sulfur added.
This is a project of a couple. Christian Knott, an Aussie from Bondi, Sydney, living in Burgundy since 2009. He’s the winemaker at Chandon de Briailles in Savigny. Morgane Seuillot, a native Burgundian. Her father trains the horses that plow vineyards up and down Burgundy.
2016 does have a green character with lots of blue fruit along salinity and savory notes. Nice mouthfeel with elegance and rustic notes a good terroir is driven through palate and nose.
 Jean-Cluade Rateau is one of the first vignerons in France to convert to biodynamics, beginning with two hectares in 1979, working along with Claude Bourguignon to analyze his soils. Rateau has always believed that the soils must be alive to ensure the healthy transfer of nutrients to the vines, especially important being the mycorrhizal fungi which assimilate phosphorous and micro-nutrients and live in symbiosis with the vines roots. He uses natural composts and biodynamic preparations and has a varied population of wild plants in the vineyards to feeds the insects. Aging is only in used barrels, three to ten years old, and minimal SO2 is used. Living in the village of Beaune and one of his best vineyards is the 1er Cru Les Reversees recently with the Australia importer Charlie from Virtuos vine (IG @virtuousvineaustralia) I tasted several Cuvee from 2017 and one 2014 Les Reversees which was superbly good. The palate is racy, brisk, and earthy with the tension between red fruit and a fine cool minerality,  with some earthy element mushroom and dry autumn leaves, a long finish and kaleidoscopic complexity.
In the tasting we also try the Vin Orange from 2015 in the Hautes Cotes de Beaune a Chardonnay left on the skin so orange in color with orange peel and preserved apple notes with nice phenolic bitterness in harmony with the fresh acidity.
The two whites from 2017 a Beaune Clos de Mariages a walled vineyard close to the town of Beaune and a 1er Cru Les Coucherias were racy and very mineral showing aromas of stone, citrus, anise, and pear liqueur. The palate is bone-dry with stone and citrus flavors, white fruits and herbal notes. I think needs some time to show their potential but they are in very good shape to be just released.

 Nicolas Vauthier, called Kikro makes wines of Northern Burgundy in several appellation Chitry, Irancy, and Epineuil, working with Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Aligoté. Before he starts making his own wine,  did a few stints in conventional wineries in France and Washington state but then after working with Philippe Pacalet he starts his own negociant in 2009 with the same approach Pacalet does.  Also before he started making his wine adventure Mr. Vauthier was famous to be the one to open one of the first natural wine bars Aux Crieurs de Vins in the town of Troyes in Champagne.


The reds are made entirely with whole bunches and carbonic maceration followed by brief elevage times for softening in barrique.
The vines of Bourgogne Coulanges-La-Vineuse are located in the northern part of Bourgogne, a few kilometers south of Auxerre on the left bank on the river Yonne.
This is a little known appellation, even in France, the harvest is done manually whole cluster fermentation semi-carbonic maceration. Raised in barrique and bottled unfined and unfiltered, 2014 gots nuance of Volatile Acidity along undertone of nail polish with a complete spectrum of sour red fruit raspberry and wild strawberry a stony minerality with green stemmy notes from the Carbonic maceration. The palate was sour a truly lambic acidity and green spinach teeth sensation but with a full flavour. Perhaps this was the most wines pushed the boundaries ... This is a kind of wines you love or you can actually hate. I did enjoy it.

Best
raffaele mastrovincenzo

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