domenica 25 agosto 2013

Cappellano Barolo

Hi I know I already reviewed this wine a year ago, that was back in Italy, I tasted this again last night in the south hemisphere where I'm actually leaving now in Melbourne. The wine as soon I opened it was so closed and dirty which my mind though was off, very vinegar balsamic on the nose; i sip a bit and felt the tannin and fruit in my palate and in my mind I said "you need time".
After a couple of hours the wine was pure red fruit, amazing concentration. Notes of medicinal herbs and mint, ripe cherries, blueberries, rose and violet. Great structure ripe tannin. A superb wine.

Teoblado Cappellano passed away on February 21 - 2009, with his unique philosophy and his meticulous winemaking a legend in Barolo was the exceptional artisanal grower with great personality. He banished everyone that wanted to score his wine with numbers, he loves his review without score. He was a president of the influential "Vini Veri" group and also leader of Italy sustainable agriculture movement.
Cappelano made fewer than 800 cases of Barolo per year, all vilified traditionally: a fermentation of 14 to 21 days with indigenous yeast and aging in well seasoned "botti" for at least three years. He made two Barolo both from the legendary Gabutti vineyard on Serralunga best slope. He removed the Gabutti designation from his label to protest on the extension of the site.
Two thirds of his barolo are Barolo Rupestris a parcel planted on grafted rootstock n the 1940.
His other Barolo is the mythic Pie Franco which means ungrafted vine with Nebbiolo Michet clone, a Barolo before Phylloxera.

mercoledì 21 agosto 2013


Pommard Premier Cru "Les Pèzerolles" 2006

The Domaine de Montille is a family winery located in Burgundy in Volnay back to the 18 century.
They farm 20 hectare of vines, essentially Premeir cru and Grand cru in both Cote de Nuits and Cote de  Beaune covering 20 appellation; is one of this winery which tend to polarize people.
Hubert the father of the family transmitted his love for Burgundy to the sons which currently manage the winery first to Etienne than to Alix. The brother and sister have taken the reins of the Domaine and love Burgundy and continue the philosophy Hubert started. Etienne vilifies the Pinot and Alix she look after the Chardonnay. Etienne is the one converted the total production of the domaine is an environmental friendly farming in 1985 they stopped to use fertilized and herbicide and the move to full organic farming in 1995 and the transit in Byodinamics in 2005. The Domaine is certified Ecocert Bio in 2012. Etienne also add at the wine a slightly change, give at the pinot production note of charm, velvet texture and additional aromatics from whole cluster fermentation to the authenticity elegance and capacity to age which his father Hubert initiated.
 Alix De Montille she looking after the white production, she think the red wines remains obscure for her. With a diploma in enology and experience in the business working at the negociant house of Alex Gambal and Ropiteau developed her knowledge. Particular she had the call for a white wines after meet  Jean Marc Roulot in Mersault. In 2003 she create Maison 2 Montille, a boutique negotiant label established with his brother Etienne to make white wines she like for purchased grapes.
The wine I'm going to talk about is their Pommard from 2006 on the clos Les Pezerolles.
Pommard is one of the larger viticultural area in the Cote de Beaune not far behind Beaune in terms of bottles producers. In between Beaune and Volnay there are no Grand Cru and today every things is red production. The appellation is conventionally split into north and south side the soil are brown with a mixture of limestone, but the soil is not very deep so the roots very quickly come in contact with the bedrock give to the wine a slightly minerality with an open bouquet.
The wine was fruited on the nose a touch sweet with a pronounced floral character with a bright mineral. Warm cherry with subtle spice and ginger tones. Slightly chewy in the mouth with full of ripe tannins balance by slightly soft acidity with a great freshness in the palate.


lunedì 12 agosto 2013

Pithon Paillè Loire Valley

From the website of Pithon Paillè:
The creation of a wine merchant business (négociant-eleveur) Jo Pithon’s dream has always been to set up a ‘négociant’ business, similar to those in Burgundy and the Rhone Valley, offering top quality wines grown on different terroirs. The idea of vinifying and aging wines made from the Chenin and Cabernet Franc grape using the different soil-types of the region was too tempting to resist... At the beginning of 2008, Jo Pithon and Isabelle Pithon, changed direction as only wine growers and decided to create a négociant-éleveur business with Joseph Paillé, Isabelle’s son, and Wendy Paillé, his wife, still retaining 5 hectares of their original estate, notably the famous Les Treilles, for they remain vignerons at heart! Now in 2013 the estate has grown to 13 hectares. The idea is to work hand in hand with growers, using predominantly Chenin and Cabernet Franc grapes. A work plan with vine growers have been created as follows : Careful selection of the plots, with a preference for organic production Supervision in the vines throughout the year. Deciding on the harvest date This means having a trusting relationship with the different wine growers and a profound knowledge of the Loire Valley. This knowledge Jo gained by spending much time in cellars all over the world over a period of thirty years, glass-in-hand! But of course everything started in the Loire Valley. The idea of maturing wines and improving their quality, nurturing them a bit like one would a child, to bring out the best in them, appeals to Jo. The process is a marriage between time and micro oxygenation. Maturation is mainly in burgundy barrels, the wines being left from 10 to 18 months depending on the style.
A chenin blanc from Anjou 2010
Light color. Delicate stony nose, with firm minerality, very good acidity honeyed with a nutty character streak from barrel aging. Rich and slightly unctuous with a refreshing note of acidity on the finish.
The wine perfectly show the clay, gravel shale on decomposed schist of Anjou. A perfect entry level of Chenin blanc from a good young growers

lunedì 5 agosto 2013


The Savennieres appellation begin in the west limit of the Angers commune. The vines spread west for approximately eight kilometers along the right bank of the Loire river encompassing the 3 commune of Epirè, Savennieres and la Possoniere. A series of plateaux which are essential small valleys running perpendicular down to the river and whose steep slopes offer a perfect south-west facing orientation. The plateaux of Epirè, Savennieres and la Possoniere are set up 2 km back from the river and are more open and exposed with vine, the appellation highest point, being an altitude of around 75 meters.
The only permitted grape varieties is Chenin blanc, historically, the vines were propagated through massal-selection rather the using specific clones. The variability of massal-selection dictates that flowering is not homogeneous and therefore neither is the ripening; this ensures that in almost every vintage it is necessary for the wines to be picked in two or three passage, although in some vintage and depending on the philosophy of the growers it may be more. The warmest vintage often require the least number of tries. In addition to Chenin one other varieties plays an official part in the appellation Verdelho de Madere and some Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Caberent Franc and Sauvignon; but it is clear that Savennieres is not Chenin Blanc, it is just made from Chenin Blanc; a taste from the landscape.
The soil of the appellation are potentially more complex than any other french viticultural region.  A short walk through any one parcel of vines, illustrate how varied the soil type and the mechanical make up can be. It is based on hard rocks, different shists made up of blue granite, quartz, sand stone and volcanic debris such as the red/yellow rhyolite, black phtanite and spilite; red/brown in colour, and created through the reaction of lava being cooled quickly by sea water.  The sub-soil remains the same impermeable shist, which can occasionally be seen rising to the surface but, for the most part there is a covering of sand deposit by the action of wind driven up from the river below.  This sand offer little in terms of nutrition for the vines and acts only as a mechanical support. This vineyard are often inaccessible as they become waterlogged in winter or after heavy rain as the water doesn't really drain away due to the impervious makeup of the rock below, whilst in summer or periods of drought the sole becomes baked making it difficult to work.  The success of the vines here comes from their ability to locate fissures in the shists below and find the necessary nutrition and minerals. Savennieres being just 120 kilometers in land from the Atlantic coast enjoy all the benefits that the Gulf Stream brings. In terms of temperature, the average is between 11.5° and 12° between December and February with an average in July/August of around 19.5° and Autumn here is often extended into October, ideally for late ripening Chenin. The fact that the vineyards lie on the north bank of the Loire river means that they are at the higher altitude than those across the river in the Layon. This results in better exposure to Summer breeze with the vineyards being generally cooler and suffering less humidity  than those across the river. In addition the fact that the soil here are much less fertile means that botrytis remains a possibility, the incidence of noble rot for the production of sweet wines is much less likely.
Domaine Baumard produce Clos St Yves which is one of the most important specific area in Savennieres with a schist soil condition and lately i had his 2007. Pale yellow, day bright appearance, clean but closed on the nose, a bit reductive. Well textured with good richness, flowers of quince, lemon pit, stone fruit, good length with a hint of bitterness on the finish. Not very expressive as yet but shows class, very promising.
CLOS de la BERGERIE 2008
Also i had Clos De La Bergerie from Nicolas Joly. From the vineyard Roches-aux-Moines, Joly Bergerie is named for the fact he has actual sheep roaming the property.  Aromas of golden apple cider, raw onion repeated on the palate, soft and around the edge, well balanced with acidity, wide, complex, honey dew, kernel character, slightly forest floor, slate, flint, impressive minerality, a wine from a desert island.