domenica 30 dicembre 2012

Barolo "Tradizione" and "Innovazione"
Lately I have been tasting two Nebbiolo from Barolo in Piemonte:
2006 Cavallotto Bricco Boschis located in the Commune of Castiglione Falletto. Since 1948 the Cavallotto family producing mainly Nebbiolo wines with some Barbera, Dolcetto, Freisa, Grignolino e Chardonnay with the respect of the old fashion tradition of  Langhe. All their wines aging in old Slavonian barrel oak made in Italy with long maceration on skin grapes to release more polyphenol and tannin to the wine especially for the Nebbiolo grapes. Wine with great longevity.
This 2006 was purple with a lovely garnet color on the edge typically of the Nebbiolo, the nose was complex mainly balsamic, herbs, mint, white pepper and licorice. Violet and strawberries where fine scents coming through all the time your put close the nose in the glass. Mouthful and succulent with a pleased tannin but very present in the palate; back of the palate the juiciness of the fruit was persistence with a beatifull long finish.

2008 Mauro Veglio, quite a new producer in this very old land of wine. He start in 1992 located in La Morra in the commune of Monforte d'Alba. La Morra nebbiolo have got the characteristic to be smoother in tannin for the exposition and the soil, clay and sand.
Was a 2008 barolo very good vintage a bit of sweetness very little, texturally with a clear expression of alcohol. On the nose release spiciness and licorice and very good present tannin definitely smoother than Cavallotto. What surprise me was the colour very nebbiolo style even if the producers using to rest the wine in a french barrique, a way to express the wine quickly, i reckon the use of oak was made very carefully and with great attention. A new producer and contemporary style of Barolo with short maceration and the use of small barrel, however the wine was a typical Barolo. Surprise me Well done Mauro Veglio.. Ps what perhaps i didn't enjoy was this hint of anise, was overpowering all the other complexity of the Barolo style sometimes.
TOnight We will open Cappellano stay tuned....

giovedì 27 dicembre 2012

Christmas time a Luca Bevilacqua
Yesterday i spent an afternoon with some of my friends in Italy at the home of Luca Bevilacqua a very long ago friend.
We started with a rose from south of france in the north of the Alpilles in the communes Saint Remy de Provence.
The producer was Domaine Milan; Henry Milan the owner of the vineyard which started in 1986 after which, took over from his father Robert who began in 1956. Henry introduced in the farming an organic approach and moved towards biodinamic and also with a great geological diversity and different climates, soon separated the estate into different vineyards like in Burgundy and create the "Clos Milan". Afinest producer of the Provence!
The first, we had was a rosé from 
Milan called LE JARDIN 2009 made with Grenache noire, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault and Mourvedre
 The color was bright similar to red skin onoiun reflecting a delicate amber color, cherry was predominate on the nose a bit reductive with a very short hint of volatile. After rested in the glass more characteristic came through showing some wet leaves and mushroom, the acidity was well supported for the alcohol; a beatufiful rose from the south of France.
The second bottle opened was Le Grand Blanc from Henri Milan 2009 
13%Grenache Blanc, 60%Rolle (Vermentino), 20% Rousanne a fabulous white wine similar to a white hermitage, warm in the palate, structure, with mature yellow fruit, saffron and honey... advise to decanter it before serving.

The third, a Wine from Abruzzo from the winery Marina Palusci. Pecorino the grape a native from that region in central Italy. Very stinky on the nose, completely malolactic, in the palate was so smooth and clean. Focus on his persistence rather on the freshness, less acidity have been display in the tasting, very interesting product.  

Next a Gamay for Morgon made by Marcel Lapierre in Beaujolais very juice smooth and elegant red wine with instant drinkability well matched with our chilly pizza and "bruschette".
I really love all of his wines and very proud to know one of the Gang of Four of french natural wine movement.
the gang of four are :
Guy Breton, Jean-Paul Thévenet, and Jean Foillard and Marcel
We had some other interesting wine in all afternoon that are the most interesting me.

Gang of Four Outside the Trains Don't Run on Time 1979

sabato 8 dicembre 2012

Juice running in contact with the skin in Friuli Italy

I DRUNK IT +++++ and I gave it 34/100 while I was smoking a Sant Cristobal cigar from Cuba a the perfect humidity and select temperature... look what a match:
SIMPLE I.G.T. from Friuli Venezia Giulia 
a simple crazy wine full of mistake, start with the color definitely amber, unfiltered, secondary characteristic on the nose, less fruit and freshness acidity fight with the tannin... lots of shit coming in the glass, sediment, tartaric acidity.. apparently the winemaker forgot to filtered the wine, correct the acidity and didn't use any inverse osmosis filtered. Also he didn't control the temperature... what a lazy wine............

In the Gorizia hills of Friuli on the border with Slovenia, winemaker Damijan Podversic makes some of the most personal - and controversial - wines made anywhere. Damijan ferments on the skins in upright wood fermenters using only natural yeast. This may not sound so controversial, but indeed it is as he is making white wines not red. The results are white wines so concentrated with flavor and tannin that if you close your eyes you would be absolutely convinced you were drinking a red wine. Actually, you feel like you are drinking a red wine even when you have your eyes open. It really has no other equivalent in the world of white wines.
Certified organic by IMC (Instituto Mediterraneo Certificazione)

sabato 1 dicembre 2012

 Artisan Wines in melbourne...

Lately I have been living in Melbourne an amazing town, full of nice small places to eat and drink...

I have noticed in the bench of wine bars and the wine list all over the city in the last year there is an attention in "Natural wines" or  in my way  artisan wines....

In all my excursion i had the chance to try lots of nice stuff one of that is a Georgian wine (lately) imported in Australia... Georgia is the country where the wine is born, in-fact the wine born eight thousand years ago, and perhaps the first wine produced was in a region overlooking the Black sea, which the greeks called Colchis what we call today Georgia. Still today the rocky and small republic Caucasian is an extraordinary reserve with dozen of species and  different varieties of wines.
Georgia boasts an ancient culture of wine.

The wine I tried was from Phesant's Tears a winery led by an american artist John H Wunderman whom fall in love with the landscape of Georgia. All the wines aged in Qvevri; a large vessel made with clay in a shape like an Amphora or similar to egg, which is coated inside with organic beeswax, uses for fermentation and storage of the wine, often buried below ground level into the floor of wine cellars.
The grapes varieties was Saperavi from 2007, the wine was dark and concentrated in color with a really  smooth tannin and lifted by a nice spine of acidity showing an interesting aging, remarkable I would say! The notes where all towards secondary characteristic, less fruit was involved in the nose, displayed lots of earthy flavor and leather... I guess for the long time the juice spend with the skin contact and any controlled temperature and of-course inoculated yeast; which normally is helping in the process of vinification to lift the aroma and fruitiness. Overall i did like the drinkability of the wine which I'm looking often in wine.

Bottle bought at the restaurant called Virginia Plain in the CBD and if I'm not wrong they import the wine as well.

Recommend to try as well:

Prince Makashvili : Mtsvane e Rkatsiteli Grand Cru Tsarapi
Iago Bitarishvili:Chardakhi
Tamazi Natroshvili:Rkaziteli Cru Kelmetshuri