venerdì 27 settembre 2013

100% Aligotè

Recently I open this beautiful wine from Morey Sant Denis, "Clos des Monts Luisant" made from 100% Aligotè grapes in the heart of Cote de Nuits by Domaine Ponsot a monopole with great integrity and terroir driving. Aligotè is normally see as secondary grape varieties but Ponsot made with this clos a queen of white burgundy production, made with ancient vines make an outstanding wine to buried in your cellar .
Ponsot considers biodynamics to be a dream, as from a practical point of view it is close to impossible to practice in a pure way. The vine are relatively short pruned - son not so many bunches - spraying is kept to minim and everything is harvest by hand. Ponsot is almost the last vineyard to be harvested.
Jean Marie Ponsot was also one of the pioneers of the clonal selection of Pinot Noir in Burgundy during 1960, many of the most respected Pinot Noir clones (113, 114, 115, 667) were selected from the estate Clos de la Roche. Ponsot doesn't use new oak, preferring to use minim five years old barrel from domaine he knows well, the barrel aging varies from vintage to another. There is no filtration and no fining expect for the 1985. Sulphur dioxide is avoided as much as possible. The closure of the wine are plastic cork made by italian company called Ardea a decision to guarantee the consistency between bottle to bottle.
Up on the slopes above Clos de la Roche lies one hectare vineyard which is a truly unique Premier cru vineyard from Aligote grapes considered an unfashionable grape in regards of the famous Chardonnay.
"Clos des Monts Luisant" 2006
 was light crisp color. Subtle nose a bit reductive at the begging. White flowers, almond skin, apple character, pistachio very mineral, limestone and shellfish hint with wet stone sea reminiscent. long and complex and harmonious. Grip and steeliness, very fine wine. Acid structure is the key of the wine. Rarely the wine go under malolactic fermentation due the very small percentage of malic acid in the must.

domenica 15 settembre 2013

Valentini and Josko Gravner two artisan of italian wines

mercoledì 11 settembre 2013

La Stoppa Ageno

La Stoppa is an ancient winery located in Piacenza area in the region of Emilia Romagna all the vineyard are in the hill of the Val Trebbiolo on top of the river Trebbia.

In 1973 the Pantaleoni family bought the property, and today the company is run by Elena Pantaleoni and Giulio Armani the winemaker and also owner of the winery Denavolo; all the vineyards are managing under organic farming and certified by "Ente Suolo e Salute".
The property account on 30 hectare of vineyards dedicated around different grapes varieties indigenous in the area as Ortrugo, Trebbiano, Malvasia di Candia Aromatica are the white and the red are Bonarda and Barbera. The soil consist of heavy clay and limestone. The climate are very hot in the period of growing season with a daily cool nights which help the wine to rest and extend the growing season and also help retain freshness on the wine "acidity" and the loss of volatile aroma. A minimal intervention approach is taken in the cellar and the wines fermented on their native yeast, sulfur is never added during vinification only in a small doses at the bottling. Long skin contact is the key of the winemaking process in regards of the warm climate the winemaker prefer extract as much as possible the polifenol, tannin and all the nutrient present on the skin. Stainless steel and concrete are used for fermentation and small and large barrels for aging.
The wine I had was the Ageno 2006 Amber in color dried apricot and jasmine with honey and spicy notes. Good structure savory and fresh. Honey and almond on the finish. A fairly tannin structure on the palate very pleasant .
The age of the vineyards are 40 years old, the juice sat on the skin for 30 days. The elevage are 12 months between steel and old barrique, two years on bottle… Unfiltered.
60% Malvasia di Candia Aromatica and 40% Ortrugo and Trebbiano.

Emilia Romagna great wine….

domenica 8 settembre 2013

Barolo cru tasting

Barolo a DOCG wine produced in the northern italian region of Piedmont, made with Nebbiolo grape variety which are Lampia, Michet and Rosè clones. Clusters are dark blue and grayish with abundant wax that dresses the grapes. Their form is lengthened, pyramidal with small spherical grapes. Compared to other grape varieties Nebbiolo is one of the first varieties to bud and last varieties to ripen, with harvest taking place in mid to late October. In some vintage, other producers are able to pick and complete fermentation of their Barbera and Dolcetto before Nebbiolo is ready.
Barolo tend to be rich, deeply concentrated with pronounced tannins and acidity. The wines are almost always light in color varying from ruby to garnet in their youth to more brick and orange hues as they age. Like Pinot Noir, Barolo are never opaque; every time brilliant and translucent, tar, rose and violet are common notes. The soil area is divided by two different types; Tortonian soil and Helvetian soil.
Tortonian soil is composed of calcareous marl that is more compact and fertile mostly in the commune of Barolo and La Morra there are clay deposits and soil with enough alkalinity to tame the naturally high acidity.
Helvetian soil mostly in the commune of Serralunga, Monforte and Castiglione Faletto is a compact sandstone with high level of iron and phosphorus.

Cavallotto Bricco Boschis 2006 vigna S. Giuseppe in Castiglione Faletto; one of my favorite producer:
the Cavallotto winery is a reference point for traditional style Barolo, it all started after the second world  war with the purchase of the Tenuta Bricco Boschis with a careful selection of the grapes, long fermentation and the use of Slavonian oak barrels.
The wine is mineral with iron tones, with complex aroma of licorice, violets, tar, smoke and incense with marked tannins and balanced persistence.  Really potential aging.

Marcarini, located in the hill top town of La Morra. Marcarini has two cru Barolo, Brunate and La Serra in Serralunga D'Alba, are quite different. The Bruante shows fabulous intensity and depth, menthol, pine, raisin, balsamic notes, violet, licorice, tar, sour plum and preserved strawberry. The wine fermented for fifteen days, followed by another forty days on contact with the skin. The wine then spends two years in large neutral cask and then raked into steel before bottled. Will be ready in 2027.

E Pira and Figli, a small winery in the heart of the commune of Barolo, from the Cannubi and Via Riogna vineyard. Certified organic, approx 10,000 bottles are produced. The barrique are the key of this new modern Barolo. The wine are deep and precise, licorice and coffee blend, blackberries and jam, austere and compact. Muscular, deep, dense, ripe tannin and two years on barrique. Not my style of Barolo, however a good drink.

In the commune of Serralunga d'Alba, with the cru Vigna Rionda, Margheria and Marenca another new style of Barolo. The Vigna Rionda 2005 was solid and refreshing with lively tannins. Jam, licorice blackberries and mint, austere and complex style. Barrique, f@%k barrique.

Brezza family produce 8,000 bottles per year with 16 hectors of wineries. A family business in the heart of Barolo. The Cannubi 2008 show on the nose fresh cherries, strawberry jam and wild strawberry, violets, licorice, chamomile, rose and thyme, sold and balanced with dense tannin, large barrels is the key of the elevage.

The Sarmassa 2008 from Brezza is very old school. Berries, dry leaves, licorice, cherries, herbs, mineral tones. Lively, powerful and smooth with ripe tannin. Long and juicy.