venerdì 29 novembre 2013

Mineral Agrapart 05

                                                     Photo from Agrapart website

Was my birthday not long ago and I had the pleasure to drink this beautiful champagne from Avize the champagne grower is Agrapart  in the Cote blanc, they make outstanding champagne, 6 styles in total:

-7 cru brut:
 made in chardonnay 100%  in 7 different villages which represent the domaine of the house. They are: Madreuil, Oger, Bergeres les Vertus, Avize, Cremant, Oiry and Avernay Val D'or.
Normally the wine is an assemblage of two vintage which are previously aged in barrel with the malolactic done completely and 3 years on lees.
-Terroirs extra brut:
100% chardonnay, malolactic completetely and 4 years on lees with elevage in oak before la liquere de tirage. Two vintage blended together.
-Complantee extra brut Grand Cru:
cepage are Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Blanc, Arbanne, Petit Meslier and Chardonnay only on the Grand Cru Avize. 4years on lees with 5 g. of sugar in the Dosage.
-Mineral extra brut blanc de blanc
Chardonnay 100% on old vines in the grand cru of Avize and Cramant on calcareous and limestone soil with a chalky bed, with 5 years on lees.
-Avizoise extra brut:
blanc de blanc on the grand cru Avize on 55 years old vines on clay and chalky soil, with 5 years on lees.
-Venus brut nature:
blanc de blanc on the grand cru of Avize with vines planted in 1959 which have been worked only with a horse called Venus… Hommage to the horse.
Agrapart has a great style with the aging of the cuvee in barrel to achieve the malolactic, which I love the texture I find in the palate. Great respect from the biodiversity on the vines with none of the chemicals spray, healthy drink my friends.
The 05 Mineral was gold in color with green watery rim fine and persistence perlage showing on my glass all the time; the mousse creamy and soft the natural Co2 was pleasant on my palate. A glass of heavy still water with good calcium match the drink perfectly (very important to drink still water with champagne, especially if pairing your food). Nose, golden apple and ripe pear with a citrus line, yeasty, biscuit, warm shortbread and salty and sugar doughnuts, white truffle great multi layer of aroma.
Great maison on Champagne.











domenica 24 novembre 2013

Emanuel Brochet 2006 Villers aux Noeuds . R.M.


Emmanuel Brochet Villers aux Noeuds . R.M.
2,5 ha Pinot noir, Meniuer and Chardonnay Bottles produced annually 6.080.
Located beyond the city of Reims, in direction for Epernay there is a tiny village Villers aux Noudes where he works and lives-Emauelle Brochet a small vigneron in Champagne.
The vineyard are training organically with AB certified, but you will not find written on the label.
Small traditional press are used "Coquard" (the wooden square base).
All his Cuvèe born and mature in wood for over a year, but the tone is never woody too obvious with an incredible balance acid structure. First vintage was 2002, but be careful, because it can rely on vines planted in 1962 and 1986.
His millesime 2002 with an elavage on wood 11 months, show bright colour with golden hue, elegant fine bubble note of pistachio, brioche, apple and citrus zest a note of vanilla really clean and fresh on the palate with a tension acid… Linear and energetic.

Love Champagne.


domenica 17 novembre 2013

Nicolas Joly Les Vieux Clos 2010

Nicolas Joly's Chateau de la Roche aux Moines 7 hectares of one of the most celebrated Savennieres producer which has an AOC on his own as a monopole Coulee-de-Serrant.
The father of the biodynamic in France started back in the 1981, which today is still a leading spokes person for the "trendy" of Biodynamic around the world as a leader of the association Le Reinassance des Appelations in english called Return the terroir.
Since 2006, Virginie his daughter takes a position as an oenologist in her fathers winery, she has
contributed to the production of more recent vintage.
 Savennieres  as i wrote previous on this blog is a great Appelation in the Loire valley in France just in the  Anjou section.
 Savennieres is also called the kingdom of dry white wines; the AOC area is limited to the three communes to the south of Angers, on the right bank of the Loire, Savennieres, Bouchemaine and La Possonniere.
There are two distinct denominations within the appellation La Roche aux Moines and La Coulee de Serrant.
145 ha in total including 33 ha for Savennieres-Roche-aux-Moines and 7 ha for Savennieres-Coulee-de-Serrant.
The soil are made up of sandy shale, volcanic and schist. The highest point of the appellation is around 75 meters
Grapes varieties of course Chenin blanc…
Normally I find the wine of Nicolas Joly very inconsistence especially for la Coulee de Serrant to many bottle variation; however lately i had a few bottle of his Les Vieux Clos from 2010 a really beautiful expression of Chenin blanc with fully matured berry with 20% of noble rot berry to enrich color and complex aroma in a completely schist, quartz and sand soil with an average of 20 years old vines.
The wine is a pure expression of the appellation mineral complexity, a bed of chalk, crush rocks and fine saltiness, peach and mature nectarine spine acid present but overlooking the length of the wine, constantly developing in the glass, honey, cereal, wet leaves and wet mushroom with a truffle edge … Ofcourse high in alcohol very pleasant though.






lunedì 4 novembre 2013

New world cabernet Dry red wine N°1 2005

Yarra Yering Dry red wine N°1 2005
Cabernet ° Merlot ° Malbec ° Petit Verdot
Honestly I never understand cabernet red wine, first are very expansive, second are very hard to enjoy due their tannin structure and powerful.
However last night a friend of mine from Yarra Valley let me try this wine from his personal cellar; we did the tasting blind.
A first glance the purity of the fruit the smooth tannin the oaky character as moka, coconut and chocolate the slight oxidative component the hint of brett, farmyard, forest floor let me conclude the tasting, a spanish wine with cabernet into. I said this is Vega Sicilia or some good outstanding Rioja, I was definitely in the old world truly enjoyment wine.
Black cherry, rasberry jam, cook beetroot, dusty, dark flesh plum and tomato leaf. Lots of pleasant oak sweet spice and vanilla. Lovely tar and charcoal minerality.
We discovery the bottle and bang Cabernet blend from Yarra Valley, "Yarra Yering" awesome. I know I'm shit taster but I don't see that as a problem I don't want to be an expert…
I know this winery make really cool wine I drunk a lot of his reserve bottle fermented sparkling super  complex as Enoteque, Bollinger, Ouriet but without the chalky minerality which the only great champagne can give you.
However thank's to Cam to let me try this expansive bottle of wine a truly enjoyment drink.
Looking forward to a new tasting of Yarra Yering.
.

domenica 3 novembre 2013

Volnay

The small village of Volnay one of the most sorted Pinot Noir from the Cote de Beaune in between Mersault and Pommard mostly compared from the Chambolle Musigny of the nord of Burgundy for is finesse and elegance coming from similar soil of Chambolle, high active chalk content and low clay.
115 hectares of premier cru vineyard 35 in all with the best premier cru:
Les Taillepieds
Clos des Chenes
Champans
Cailleretes
Santenots
Mikulski is a polish guy with an attitude to do a great wine in the Cote de Beaune start in the early 1990  with this incredible non classic label in homemade writing, so cool. Mr. Mikulski is a non interventionist  guy, essentially organic a "lutte raisonee" he balance his work around the health of the soil and the biodiversity of the vineyard.
His Santenots du Milieu from 2009 was rich and masculine lots of red fruit some mature and sour, dry branches autumn tree, mushroom character, forest floor, red apple skin and smoky meat aroma; with some licorice and tobacco… You can feel the oak in this wine they are quite big, however the time will smooth them. 
We don't need to forget Francois Mikulski had some training in California with Ted Lemon the winemakers of Littorai winery and also he work side by side with Roulot in Mersault.
He loves the oak…












Saint Aubin premeir cru

St Aubin is a burgandy lovers paradise, located between Chassagne and Puligny Montrachet. Only 500 acres which is almost white wine production with less than 25 percent of red wine made, which are not perfumed and complex when you compare with Volnay-Pommard area. The best sites in St Aubin are 
En Remilly, 
Chatenière, 
Les Murgers des Dents de Chien.
 Les Murgers is arguably the village’s best vineyard: very stony and chalky. There is very little soil here, and the vines can suffer in difficult years; but when the grapes ripen fully, they give the most powerful and elegant wines of St Aubin.
 En Remilly is slightly less stony and the wines can be a touch broader.
 The same is with La Chatenière, a steep vineyard with a fine southerly exposure.

One of the producers I really like in the area is Domaine Hubert Lamy, along with Marc Colin which are perhaps the best producers in this appellation. 
For many years, the domaine production was sold to the negoce, but since 1997 everything has been bottled at the domaine.
 Olivier, the son of Hubert is now in charge of the Domaine - gained experience at Meo-Camuzet in Vosne-Romanee, introduced an adopted organic farming, replaced artificial fertilizer with compost, Olivier also experimented with planting density to capture more from the terroir. Most of the domaines vineyard have a limestone base and a very stony soil, with a south eastern exposure. 
 Olivier was one of the early to adopt the use of larger barrels to retain the purity of his fruit while getting just the right balance of oxygenation from the wood. The wine matures for 12months in barrel before bottling and the filtration is done only if needed. 

Lately i tried St Aubin premier cru Les Frionnes from 2010. The wine showed a beautiful apple character with citrus peel, white stone fruit, some kernel and mushrooms. Buttery component on the middle palate, lovely acidity with long flower intensity. Quite power and precise. A great wine for a common cru for a red production.
From the great Phillip Pacalet, i drank Les Murgers des Dents de Chien 2010. On this bottle the mineral content was very palatable, wet stone, crushed rocks, limestone, citrus and orchard fruit with lemon zest. Third character on the palate - wet leaves, lemon curd with a hint of custard. Very long length, great balance and fresh acidity was the key of the wine.