venerdì 27 dicembre 2013

Femme de Champagne 2000

Chardonnay from the grand cru of Choully on the village Mont-Aignu, grand cru of Avize in the village Chapelle, Grand cru Oger in the village Terre de Noel and the last from the grand cru Le Mesnil sur Oger the villages Chetillon and Ailerrand all vinified separately in oak barrels to improve vitality, elegance and structure. Also a touch of Pinot noir just 5% in the blend to give a the final glass roundness and character. Only 6 grams of residual sugar at the bottling. This is the best champagne of the NM Duval - Leroy only made in exceptional years as 1990, 1995, 1996.
Yellow gold colour with extremely fine bubbles, mineral flavors, very aromatic, floral, lemon candy, hints of orange and brioche, vanilla coffee and halzenut in undertone with butterscotch in the final, creamy and stylish alternating aroma of yeast, oaky and citrus element.
Duval Leroy is located in Vertus in the heart of " La Cote des Blanc" cultivated 200 hectares,,, massive number. Two family come together in 1859 to create this prestigious brand.

mercoledì 25 dicembre 2013

Saumur Blanc

Saumur blanc appellation is a Chenin blanc in the district of Anjou in the Loire valley region. Chenin Blanc also know as Pineau de la Loire need to be at least 80% in the appellation Saumur blanc.
Soil consistent on loose gravel, close to the bank of the Loire river you find this yellowish fragile sedimentary rock formed during the Turonian era roughly 90 millions years ago called Tuffeau. A combination of sand and marine fossils with the gravel character makes this rock extremely porous, absorbing water rapidly and releasing it slowly. This well drainage is very suitable for the growing of vines, so the vines can draw excess of water and hold reserves that stop the vines from shutting down entirely during drier periods.
The Foucault family's "Clos Rougeard" own 10 ha of vines in Saumur-Champigny and produce three red cuvees and one white.
Clos Rougeard is a cult estate that produces arguably the finest Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc in the  world. The Foucault brothers Nadi and Charlie took over the family business in 1969. They harvest in a very small yelds, vinify in barrel and leave the wine there for a couple of years in regards of the vintage 18/24 months all in a cold cellar and bottle without filtration.
Clos Rougeard Breze Saumur Blanc 2008.
Incredible rare, old vines Chenin Blanc. Gold color star bright, complex notes of crush rock, shellfish and flint, dried fruit and nuts and a touch of honey and excellent acidity.

Breze stand for the name of the clos in Saumur, like Corton Charlemagne in Aloxe-Corton.
To watch the son of Charlie Foucault which his name is Antoine, he has his own production called Domaine du Collier… Have a taste if you can…Awesome..
                                                                photo stole on the web
The Next wine I honorably had from Saumur was Domaine Guiberteau Clos de Guichaux 2010.
coming from a younger vines grown in a clay limestone terroir in a pure chalky bed rock near  Breze made with massale selection on the Breze clos; the wine spent 10 months in old barrel. Very electric, fine spine acid; tension trough mineral component citrus element and smoky fruit, dry finish with tonic character

lunedì 23 dicembre 2013

Vouvray Huet

In the center of Touraine district lies a beautiful appellation called Vouvray which celebrating the versatile of Chenin Blanc.
The Vouvray designation AOC was made in 1936, cover the commune of Vouvray in the department of Indre et Loire, and the neighboring villages of Chancay, Noizay, Reugny, Rochecorbon, Sainte-Radegonde-en-Tourraine, Vernou-sur-Brenne and part of Parcay- Meslay.
The appellation regulations dictate that the wines must consist almost entirely of Chenin Blanc but in theory can contain a small amount of Arbois grapes.
Vouvray can be affected by the soil; clay soil may tend towards a fruity flavors, flinty clay soil may taste more mineral. Also siliceous-clay and limestone clay soil embrace the different of Terroir. The cool climate ensure good acidity, which balance the distinctive character of the Chenin fruit profile and acid structure and the mineral quality are impart by the soil. The vineyard are subject, in a good years, to botrytis cynera, the old responsible for most the worlds greatest sweet white wines. In this years, harvest is delayed until well into November and they may be several pickings in order to harvest the grapes at their moment of optimus ripeness. In other years only dried wines are made.
Vouvray come in 5 different style:
Sec, Tendre, Demi Sec, Moelleux,Petillant.
From Domaine Huet I had the Clos du Bourg 2002 Moelleux.
Le Clos du Bourg is a 6 hectare vineyard and a true clos, being surrounded by an ancient stone wall. It is acknowledge as the oldest cru in the appellation. The vineyards of le Clos de Bourg is the most recognize source for moelleux, from grapes that have been affected either by botrytis or passerilage.
The wine was pure aromatics, sweet but with a perception of dry finish pear, cream and lifted lime.
Palate was concentrated which rich texture honey and melon, great spine acid structure doesn't make the wine overly sweet.. Very good one

Le Mont sec 2001 by Huet.
Gold color. Very complex nose full of mushroom, nuts, rich herbs "rosemary", almost a truffle edge. Palate savory with honey and mushroom character, yellow ripe peach and mandarin cook in brandy. Awesome.
Le Mont is a site recognized since the 15th century, also know as Perruches for the greenish tinged clay with pebbles of flint.

lunedì 16 dicembre 2013

vincent dancer 2010 Les Grands Charrons, Chassagne Montrachet 2011

Vincent Dancer is one of the most exciting young winemakers to emerge in Burgundy in recent years.
Vincent started in 1996 cultivated his vineyard with love and care in respect of the mother Nature.
Only 5,5 hectare of vineyard owned by this young vigneron of the Cote de Beaune in all superb site.
Tete Du Clos a premeir cru on Chassagne Montrachet.
La Romanee in Chassagne also. Vincent should label them as Morgeot.
In Mersault Vincent Dancer make great wines as premier cru Les Perrieres and with the lieu-dit Les Grand Charrons next to the premier cru Goutte d'Or. As a grand cru he made Chevalier Montrachet which belong only in the village of Puligny Montrachet.
His tiny estate in Chassagne-Montrachet in a decade has climbed the hierarchy of white wine mans of the Cote de Beaune. His approach is focus in develop an artisan approach of is business. In the first years the production was very low 4,000 bottles and some wines was sold to commercial companies. 
In 2003 he decide to bottle all the wines and using his names on the label, the production increase to 20,000 bottles in all his 5,5 hectare. 2012 would be the first vintage certify on the label.
was great, subliminal minerality, notes of ripe orchard fruit, lime zest, white stone peach, flint and wet stone, limestone, clay and nuttiness with lemon curd on the equation. Very young and a bit unclear in color. Only 800 bottles produces

The other wine I had was his village Chassagne Montrachet for 2011 very young and close with a great spine acid…. Needs time, but good example to understand the potential of white burgundy with a great producer. Vigorous, complex with fine acid.
Ps look at the web-site or blog of Vincent is a great photographer:

domenica 8 dicembre 2013

Zidarich Vitovska 09

Friuli Venezia Giulia Carso Doc
Red, iron rich soil with a limestone content leads the wines an acidity characteristic  and mineral notes.
Vitovska seems to be the queen of this special terroir a crossing of Malvasia Bianca Lunga, Prosecco Tonda and Terrano a red which come from the Refosco Istriano Family.
Vitovska is a thicker skinned variety that can withstand cold winters, summer draughts and the strong wind of the Bora.
Zidarich is a small producer in the small town Prepotto only 24.000 bottle on only 8 ha of vineyard.
His Winery looks like a cathedral  sculpted from the hard rock a perfect meeting of nature and human ingenuity.
The wines are very particular and strongly traditional. The whites are made crushing the berry and leaving the juice with own skin during the cuvaison (fermenting must).  A true craftsman grower with a real understanding of the Carso terroir.
The Vitovska form 2009 was cloudy golden straw yellow. Floral and mineral with citrus zest and candied orange, notes of cloves, mushroom and under bush character, wet mint and mediterranean herbs. Sapid, punchy and very persistent 24 months in large barrels.
An hint of V.A. was very pleasant on the nose and palate, a very good handling winemaking.