domenica 27 dicembre 2015

Tiny cellar in Poinchy by Laurent Tribut.

Tiny cellar in Poinchy by Laurent Tribut. 
A very small vigneron with only 7 hectare as AC Chablis, Beauroy, Cote de Lechet and Montmains as premier cru.
His approach is very traditional old barrel, minimal intervention only ambient yeast and Sulphur is used only for cleaning the barrel. his wines looks tight, cheesy and mineral.. As every good producer in Chablis the wine to get the right balance needs 5 to 7 years to express their potential, to me is one of the best Chablis producer. 
Last week in his cellar we tasted from the barrel all the 2015 
Ac Chablis very express with less minerality but perfect acidity 
1er Cru Beauroy the fattest of all his 1er cru, quite expressive with longevity and fattiness.
1er Cru Cote de Lechet quite limestone, shellfish fossil minerality as well body and fattiness but a bit more tight than Beauroy.
1er Cru Montmains is my favorite of all his cuvee reductive mineral with crazy acidity and quite salty…
                                                             Laurent pouring the wine
                                                                 selecting the barrel
        good friend

         an old barrel from Dauvissat grand father 

lunedì 21 dicembre 2015

Renè & Vincent Dauvissat cellar

visit at Dauvissat cellar

We managed to get an appointment at Rene & Vincent Dauvissat by our friend importer of wine.
This winery is in the centre of Chablis just 2 minute walk from Domaine Raveneau; 
we were greeted by the daughter of Vincent which at first glance didn't
 believe we had an appointment, but in a minute she realize we were booked as soon as we told the name of the Italian importer.
So she called Vincent, this skinny fit man lead us to his barrel cellar, an underground space full of 228l barrel and of course some Feuillette barrel 132l.
The cave is full of mould on the wall and very old, my mind thought the bacteria and the ambient yeast present in that cellar make this wine quite special.
For me every time i drunk one of his bottle it was always an incredible experience, these wines with Raveneau wines with some age become incredible, fascinating details and full of expression.
To me Dauvissat are the perfect example of the terroir of Chablis, we tasted the vintage 2013 which was a hot one and by the press and talking with the producer they all talk about the difficult on acidity but generosity and fattiness it is the style; however for Vincent is quite a classic vintage.

With him i tasted from Petit Chablis, Sechet premier cru which is a Lieux dit in Vaillons, Foret premier cru a Lieux dit in Montmains and Vaillons 1er cru:
this wine weren't exotic at all but tight and minerally with a green apple nose. Sechet shows more dimension and complexity, Foret was full of energy but very nervous was fighting with my gum/ teeth; they have an attitude as 2011 from my memory. 
After that we tasted grand cru Les Clos a salty mineral wine with body and extra dimension from the 1er cru site, last bottle was a Les Preuses bit more feminine than Le Clos but complex and minerally but less sapidity and body.
After we talked a bit with my poor french, and very lucky my italian sim card worked in the cellar so I had access to google translate to create more sense of my questions, we talked extensively about ambient yeast or cultivated use of yeast and he suddenly opened a 2002 La Foret.

This was a very good surprise, when you smell a 13 years old Chablis you feel in heaven.. then if it is a Dauvissat one and opened by Vincent for a minute i felt the happiest person in the world, Foret which means forest is small parcel in Montmains with a small forest nearby, 02 was  deeper in color but with green shade on the rim showing is youthful nose here was a bit open, yellow skin apple, apple juice, citrus skin, mushroom, crust hard cheese and definitely depth and complexity with honey and dry flower, palate great length.

Back to the yeast Dauvissat told me he's using it almost always with wild one but some vintage due to the crazy cold temperature in Chablis he needs to inoculate at the beginning of the fermentation.
This was a 45 minute visit and was quite remarkable for my personal memory.

venerdì 18 dicembre 2015

Domaine Raveneau

I have been very fortunate to visit Domaine Raveneau in Rue de Chichee at the number 9 in Chablis.
To welcome us was Messier Raveneau and his daughter Isabelle.
Was an outstanding experience quite unforgettable. We tasted through the 2014 vintage from barrel from chablis AC and a good extensive tasting on the premier cru.
Raveneau work quite traditionally hand picking, malolactic is always done but not forced, elevage in old barrel 228hl and some Feuilletes half size of a barrel, which in chablis is the measure to sell wine in a negociant market.

From 2014 we tasted the lieu dit FORET and BUTTEAUX from the hill of Montmains premier cru.
Both very tight and full of energy show some kerosene character which Isabelle told us, great acidity and champignon mushroom hints.
Then the surprise come from the Monte de Tonnere vineyard the 2014 was showing and acting as a grand cru, very closed with an acid structure high but balanced from the malo which give the smoothness and the length to the wine.
Vaillons also very citrus, mineral and very closed, this wine need some aging in bottle before express their potential.
The Grand we tasted were Valmur and Le Clos:

Le Clos was my favorite salty and super mineral shellfish, crush rock and "fleur du rock" a salty stony but also very closed.
The surprise come at the end, when Bernard open a bottle of Valmur 2008 to show us how the wine age, as well even here was super fresh, mineral with tension and energy.
We told him we drunk for lunch just down the road in gastronomy restaurant Hostellerie du Clos (who has a really good chablis wine list) a 1999 Monte de Tonnere from Bernard and that was an amazing experience.

Long life to this amazing producer, we had a really great time and their hospitality was superbly good.