domenica 3 novembre 2013

Saint Aubin premeir cru

St Aubin is a burgandy lovers paradise, located between Chassagne and Puligny Montrachet. Only 500 acres which is almost white wine production with less than 25 percent of red wine made, which are not perfumed and complex when you compare with Volnay-Pommard area. The best sites in St Aubin are 
En Remilly, 
Chatenière, 
Les Murgers des Dents de Chien.
 Les Murgers is arguably the village’s best vineyard: very stony and chalky. There is very little soil here, and the vines can suffer in difficult years; but when the grapes ripen fully, they give the most powerful and elegant wines of St Aubin.
 En Remilly is slightly less stony and the wines can be a touch broader.
 The same is with La Chatenière, a steep vineyard with a fine southerly exposure.

One of the producers I really like in the area is Domaine Hubert Lamy, along with Marc Colin which are perhaps the best producers in this appellation. 
For many years, the domaine production was sold to the negoce, but since 1997 everything has been bottled at the domaine.
 Olivier, the son of Hubert is now in charge of the Domaine - gained experience at Meo-Camuzet in Vosne-Romanee, introduced an adopted organic farming, replaced artificial fertilizer with compost, Olivier also experimented with planting density to capture more from the terroir. Most of the domaines vineyard have a limestone base and a very stony soil, with a south eastern exposure. 
 Olivier was one of the early to adopt the use of larger barrels to retain the purity of his fruit while getting just the right balance of oxygenation from the wood. The wine matures for 12months in barrel before bottling and the filtration is done only if needed. 

Lately i tried St Aubin premier cru Les Frionnes from 2010. The wine showed a beautiful apple character with citrus peel, white stone fruit, some kernel and mushrooms. Buttery component on the middle palate, lovely acidity with long flower intensity. Quite power and precise. A great wine for a common cru for a red production.
From the great Phillip Pacalet, i drank Les Murgers des Dents de Chien 2010. On this bottle the mineral content was very palatable, wet stone, crushed rocks, limestone, citrus and orchard fruit with lemon zest. Third character on the palate - wet leaves, lemon curd with a hint of custard. Very long length, great balance and fresh acidity was the key of the wine.


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