Chablis Climats and Lieux-dit
Climat: from the Greek Klima via the Latin Cliamtis.
Precisely delimited plots of land which benefit from specific geological and climate conditions...
Lieux-dits a designated area of land with a historical particularity from a topographical point of view of an ancient story...
These two terms in wine always as an interchange used; however, you can find several Lieux-dits within a single Climat... Chablis is a really good example of how these two concepts work together.
See the map above and you can see how many Lieux-Dit compose a climat, in this case, 1er Cru.
For example Montmains 1er Cru, a famous block of vineyard on the left bank of the Serein river at the bottom holds two famous Lieux-dit called Forets and Butteaux; according to the INAO, this can be a label on his own or as Montmains 1er Cru.
Vaillons 1er Cru got several different names, those are:
Sechet, Les Lys, Les Epinottes, Ronciers, Mellinots, Beugnons and Chatains.
Another good example is the famous Monte de Tonnere on the right bank of the river contains inside a few plots called Chapelot, Pied d'Aloup and Cote de Brechain.
Raveneau family own some of the best sites in the appellation, their wines have a magnificence complexity that captures the essence of Chablis’ terroir.
Viticulture is "Lutte Raisonee", with the old vines severely pruned in winter to reduce yields. After hand-harvesting, the fruit is pressed immediately and settled. Fermentation and malolactic proceeds at its own pace, followed by a year’s aging in small oak barrels called Feuillettes and burgundy barrique.
On my visit at this Domaine some years back, what I didn't like was to be aware Mr Raveneau if needs to inoculated the fermentation with selected yeast he will certainly do; as a little chaptalization if required.
On said that this wine has got a serious terroir-driven with steely element and cheese notes with great complexity supported by a tight minerality and energy,
Monte de Tonerre vineyard has a southwesterly aspect and high-quality Kimmeridgian soils, it shares many geological similarities to the Chablis Grand Cru hill, which lies just next to the famous hill of the Grand Cru "See map Above".
This 1er Cru giving a range of different carachteristic depending on the exposure. The Pied d'Aloup sub-climat at the top of the hill is oriented toward the east, while the lower slope of the hill, covered by the Chapelot vineyard, is more southerly. Finally, the Cote de Brechain vineyard faces almost due west. By blending grapes from these three vineyards, vignerons are able to manipulate the characters of each of the vineyards into a house-style Montee de Tonnerre Premier Cru.
The Chapelot of Raveneau is always label on his own, rather than used the Monte de Tonnerre name;
this wine as always an intense Grand Cru level, considering 2011 a wet vintage this bottle still carry the energy and tension you will aspect for a pure liemstone soil full of fossil shellfish; slightly smoky with some rotten apple notes but the palate was fresh with length and complex minerality.
2008 was showing some little development as a crust cheese and soaked wet button mushroom but with lots of life ahead.
Monsieur Raveneau in his cellar a great experience visiting him.
Great vintage 2012 The wines are less classically austere and tightly, drink better earlier because of their richness. Can also aging very well.
From the Cote de Lechet 1er Cru lately, I really liked 2013 of Laurent Tribut a son in law of the famous Vincent Dauvissaut as the label show the similarity.
The wine is a truly classic example of the tradition of this region.
Minerality at the core of the wine no new oak with steely tension and electric acidity.
A wine for the rich creamy Gilardeau Oyster.
Here the Vincent Dauvissaut show me the potential of aging of this region CHAPEAU.
Alice and Oliver De Moor make a very small quantity of wines in a very natural way in the village of Courgis. A vineyard with lots of clay in the substrate, dried pear, smoke, and licorice are all laced together in a supple, generous, totally inviting Chablis.
Guy Robin a family with very old vines holding make classic and powerful Chablis. This was a really good drop from this bigger vineyard site.
The cellar of Thomas Pico the hero of this region,
Thomas Pico is a great producer wich holding Vaillons 1er Cru and an interesting 1er cru in the south of the region Les Beauregards.
I love these wines are truly gems from one of the best producer of this tension mineral region.
Best
Raf
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wine / spirit / lambic / drinker
Phone +61 478038636
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