martedì 29 gennaio 2013


La Ferme de la Sansonnière

Mark Angeli and his wife only purchased these vineyards in 1990, 12 hectare of land. Different crops are involved across the property, 8 hectares are given to the vine and the rest are mixture of apple and olive trees, cereals and sunflowers to generate a steady supply of biodiversity on the land. Through the vineyards, chicken and beehives are involved to balance an organic treatment; the soil is ploughed by horses. The harvest is exclusive by hand, with several picking "tries" in different times in order to get the best ripeness and quality.
Located in the middle of Loira region in the Coteaaux du Layon in the Bonnezaux A.o.c. where most of the producers producing a sweet chenin blanc - Mark is coming out with some really interesting dry chenin blanc thus with the mention Vin de France.
I had his 2009 Les Fouchards, impressive white wine with hints of camomille, chai tea, melon, dark honey and spiciness compelling the bouquet. Long length and interminable finish on the palate.
Unfined and unfiltered, however the color is perfectly shining and bright in the glass, a masterpiece crash the fashion of natural wine full of volatile and oxidative color.
I did think while drinking to a contemporary trumpeter jazz player Wadada Leo Smith for the approach he has with the jazz and classic instrumental music, it's like Les Fouchards - so perfectly good as "conventional" winemaking but made in a real form, shaping the connection with soil, grape varieties and the personality of a good man... A wine for a deserted island or a forgotten cellar bottle it will surprise you.

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