vin nature & vin vivant

Vin nature is a wine made exclusively from healthy, pure grapes, completely free from chemicals and synthetic products. It undergoes no corrections, with only naturally occurring sulfites from the grapes themselves.
I have always enjoyed wines made without intervention, staying away from the conventional industrial enological approach.
I find wines made with conventional techniques quite boring-they all seem alike. You'd have to study hard to distinguish a Grüner Veltliner from Kamptal and an Albariño from the O Rosal subzone in Rías Baixas in a blind tasting.
On the other hand, the character and expression of the terroir shine through intensely, even if there's some degree of volatile acidity (V.A.), a natural byproduct of fermentation that, in small amounts, can add vibrancy and complexity. Similarly, hints of Brettanomyces (Brett), a wild yeast, can introduce earthy, spicy, or animalistic notes that contribute to a wine's depth. These elements elevate the wine and enhance the enjoyment rather than detract from it. If had to draw a comparison, it's like listening to exploring the richness of modal, spiritual, or free jazz. 
Lately, I've noticed a decline in the trend for these wines. The new generation seems less willing to embrace even minimal imperfections, like the ones I mentioned earlier, which can actually enhance the enjoyment. Instead, they sometimes at the expense of character and complexity. 
Wine buyers from import companies seem to be playing it safe, scouting for wines labeled as vin nature but leaning toward more polished, risk-free choices. Many producers, aware of this trend, focus on packaging and storytelling to market their wines as vin nature, even when they don't fully embrace the philosophy behind it.
One of the biggest challenges in the vin nature market today is the issue of mousiness (mousiness, saurigny, buccia di salame). This fault, caused by certain bacteria, gives wine an unpleasant aftertaste reminiscent of a mouse cage, cured meat, or even stale bread. The tricky part is that it's not immediately detectable but can appears after a few hours or the next day.
Honestly can't stand it either-it makes wines undrinkable. But for me, that's not really a problem. A bottle of wine is meant to be shared-with friends, a partner, or over a meal. It doesn't need to last forever, because simply finish it.
However, the Gen Z and Gen X crowd - these new kids on the block-seem to spot mousiness everywhere the moment they see a vin nature label. Instead of appreciating the artisanal approach of the winemakers, they often dismiss perceived faults than on the craftsmanship behind them.
My vin nature wines also show great aging potential, especially because these producers are dedicated to preserving old vines. With deep roots reaching far into the soil, these vines capture the true essence of the terroir. In contrast, conventional winemaking often prioritizes high yields and productivity, favoring young vines that may lack the depth and complexity that come with age.
In white wines, these producers favor skin maceration, which enhances complexity and adds multiple layers of flavor, both on the nose and palate. This technique allows the wine to develop depth, texture, and a more expressive character compared to conventionally made whites.
Elevage is always done in neutral vessels-old barrels, fiberglass, amphorae, etc.-chosen to provide gentle micro-oxygenation without adding additional flavors, unlike new oak, which can overpower the wine's natural expression. The goal is to let the purity of the fruit and terroir shine through.
Yes, beer can also be made with spontaneous fermentation, much like Belgian Lambic beer. Lambic is a traditional beer style from Belgium, where wild yeasts and bacteria from the environment are used to ferment the beer naturally, without added yeast. This results in a distinctive, often sour and funky flavor profile, with a range of complex tastes, from tart and acetic to earthy and fruity. For me, these acetic, sour beers fit perfectly within the vin vivant category-similar to natural wines-because they embrace the unpredictable and wild character that comes from spontaneous fermentation, creating a drink that tells the story of the environment and the producer's hands-off approach.
 These vineyards, often planted with indigenous grape varieties, have deep roots that tap into the unique terroir. Winemakers restore these vineyards, using biodynamic or organic methods, to produce wines that tell the story of the land and its forgotten past. The wines made from these old vines often have incredible complexity, reflecting the deep history of the region.
 The Wild Yeast Experiment: spontaneous fermentation using the wild yeasts present on the vineyard's grapes and in the surrounding environment. Without inoculating the wine with commercial yeast, the winemaker let nature take its course.
The resul is a wine that varied from year to year, each vintage expressing its own unique character. Some bottles tasted funky with notes of barnyard and earth, while others had a vibrant, floral character. Each bottle was a reflection of that specific year and place, showing the magic and unpredictability of wild fermentation.
 A Focus on Biodynamics: There's a well-known story of winemakers in the Loire Valley (example Béatrice and Michel Augé in the Chér department) who switched from conventional methods to biodynamic farming, which is at the heart of vin vivant. This winemakers started to see dramatic changes in the quality of the wine after just a few years, as the soil and vines became healthier. The wine took on an entirely new expression-more vibrant, with greater depth and complexity.  The farm practices, including working with the lunar calendar and preparing compost and herbal teas, were key to this transformation. The wine became a true reflection of the land's vitality.
 The Breathing Amphorae: A group of vin vivant producers in Italy turned to amphorae for fermentation and aging, inspired by ancient winemaking techniques. These large clay vessels allow for micro-oxygenation, which helps round out the wine and add a unique texture. Some winemakers even bury the amphorae in the ground, allowing them to interact more intimately with the soil temperature and conditions.
 Producer found that after fermenting his whites in amphorae, they developed an extraordinary minerality and structure that was impossible to achieve with modern tanks or barrels. The amphorae became their own living organism, "breathing" in harmony with the wine, creating a symbiotic relationship between the clay and the grape.
 The Vineyard as a Living Ecosystem: They planted herbs and flowers among the vines, invited bees to pollinate, and made compost from organic materials on-site. Over time, this method led to healthier vines and more resilient grapes. 
 This winemaker viewed the wine not as a product, but as a living thing, with each bottle representing the harmony between nature and the vineyard. wine-it's about a philosophy of working in harmony with nature, respecting tradition, and embracing the unpredictable elements that make each bottle unique.
 Wine is a philosophy of working in harmony with nature, respecting tradition, and embracing the unpredictable elements that make each bottle unique.

Comments

  1. Incredible. Your perspective and experience is exhilarating to read. A huge part of the reason we gravitated toward natural wine was from the tastings we shared together in the early days of Lumen. Forever grateful for your influence and contributions to this landscape!

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