venerdì 27 settembre 2013

100% Aligotè

Recently I open this beautiful wine from Morey Sant Denis, "Clos des Monts Luisant" made from 100% Aligotè grapes in the heart of Cote de Nuits by Domaine Ponsot a monopole with great integrity and terroir driving. Aligotè is normally see as secondary grape varieties but Ponsot made with this clos a queen of white burgundy production, made with ancient vines make an outstanding wine to buried in your cellar .
Ponsot considers biodynamics to be a dream, as from a practical point of view it is close to impossible to practice in a pure way. The vine are relatively short pruned - son not so many bunches - spraying is kept to minim and everything is harvest by hand. Ponsot is almost the last vineyard to be harvested.
Jean Marie Ponsot was also one of the pioneers of the clonal selection of Pinot Noir in Burgundy during 1960, many of the most respected Pinot Noir clones (113, 114, 115, 667) were selected from the estate Clos de la Roche. Ponsot doesn't use new oak, preferring to use minim five years old barrel from domaine he knows well, the barrel aging varies from vintage to another. There is no filtration and no fining expect for the 1985. Sulphur dioxide is avoided as much as possible. The closure of the wine are plastic cork made by italian company called Ardea a decision to guarantee the consistency between bottle to bottle.
Up on the slopes above Clos de la Roche lies one hectare vineyard which is a truly unique Premier cru vineyard from Aligote grapes considered an unfashionable grape in regards of the famous Chardonnay.
"Clos des Monts Luisant" 2006
 was light crisp color. Subtle nose a bit reductive at the begging. White flowers, almond skin, apple character, pistachio very mineral, limestone and shellfish hint with wet stone sea reminiscent. long and complex and harmonious. Grip and steeliness, very fine wine. Acid structure is the key of the wine. Rarely the wine go under malolactic fermentation due the very small percentage of malic acid in the must.

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