domenica 8 settembre 2013

Barolo cru tasting

Barolo a DOCG wine produced in the northern italian region of Piedmont, made with Nebbiolo grape variety which are Lampia, Michet and Rosè clones. Clusters are dark blue and grayish with abundant wax that dresses the grapes. Their form is lengthened, pyramidal with small spherical grapes. Compared to other grape varieties Nebbiolo is one of the first varieties to bud and last varieties to ripen, with harvest taking place in mid to late October. In some vintage, other producers are able to pick and complete fermentation of their Barbera and Dolcetto before Nebbiolo is ready.
Barolo tend to be rich, deeply concentrated with pronounced tannins and acidity. The wines are almost always light in color varying from ruby to garnet in their youth to more brick and orange hues as they age. Like Pinot Noir, Barolo are never opaque; every time brilliant and translucent, tar, rose and violet are common notes. The soil area is divided by two different types; Tortonian soil and Helvetian soil.
Tortonian soil is composed of calcareous marl that is more compact and fertile mostly in the commune of Barolo and La Morra there are clay deposits and soil with enough alkalinity to tame the naturally high acidity.
Helvetian soil mostly in the commune of Serralunga, Monforte and Castiglione Faletto is a compact sandstone with high level of iron and phosphorus.

Cavallotto Bricco Boschis 2006 vigna S. Giuseppe in Castiglione Faletto; one of my favorite producer:
the Cavallotto winery is a reference point for traditional style Barolo, it all started after the second world  war with the purchase of the Tenuta Bricco Boschis with a careful selection of the grapes, long fermentation and the use of Slavonian oak barrels.
The wine is mineral with iron tones, with complex aroma of licorice, violets, tar, smoke and incense with marked tannins and balanced persistence.  Really potential aging.

Marcarini, located in the hill top town of La Morra. Marcarini has two cru Barolo, Brunate and La Serra in Serralunga D'Alba, are quite different. The Bruante shows fabulous intensity and depth, menthol, pine, raisin, balsamic notes, violet, licorice, tar, sour plum and preserved strawberry. The wine fermented for fifteen days, followed by another forty days on contact with the skin. The wine then spends two years in large neutral cask and then raked into steel before bottled. Will be ready in 2027.

E Pira and Figli, a small winery in the heart of the commune of Barolo, from the Cannubi and Via Riogna vineyard. Certified organic, approx 10,000 bottles are produced. The barrique are the key of this new modern Barolo. The wine are deep and precise, licorice and coffee blend, blackberries and jam, austere and compact. Muscular, deep, dense, ripe tannin and two years on barrique. Not my style of Barolo, however a good drink.

In the commune of Serralunga d'Alba, with the cru Vigna Rionda, Margheria and Marenca another new style of Barolo. The Vigna Rionda 2005 was solid and refreshing with lively tannins. Jam, licorice blackberries and mint, austere and complex style. Barrique, f@%k barrique.

Brezza family produce 8,000 bottles per year with 16 hectors of wineries. A family business in the heart of Barolo. The Cannubi 2008 show on the nose fresh cherries, strawberry jam and wild strawberry, violets, licorice, chamomile, rose and thyme, sold and balanced with dense tannin, large barrels is the key of the elevage.

The Sarmassa 2008 from Brezza is very old school. Berries, dry leaves, licorice, cherries, herbs, mineral tones. Lively, powerful and smooth with ripe tannin. Long and juicy.

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