domenica 9 marzo 2014

Wachau wine

North of Wien there is a wine region called Niederosterreich with different DCA (Districtus Austria Controllatus) very similar to the AOC in France or the DOC system in Italy.
One of DAC is Wachau on the narrow Danube valley between Melk and Krems. Vineyards are in steep terrace mainly focus on Riesling and Gruner veltiner with hot a dry summer and cold winter are mitigate by the Danube river which contra balance the excess of temperature, that conditions generate a complexity aroma in the grapes. The soil are very various sandy, gravel and stony with altitude they  converge with the western Atlantic stream and the Pannonian conditions (compaction of sediment on one hand and structural movement on the other).
Wachau is a small DAC with 3 different categories Steinfeder, Federspiel and Smaragd are used respectively for light, medium and full body wines with natural alcohol.
Steinfeder maximun alcool content 11,5%
Federspiel with an alcohol content between 11,5% to 12,5% by volume.
Smaragd is the name for the best and complex wine with alcohol up to 12,5% by volume.
Emmerich Knoll 2007 Smaragd "Kellerberg"
The riesling from the famous terrace of Kellerberg in Durnstein is one of the most truly best site for Riesling in Wachau. Quite lemon gold with straw yellow rim, nose very exotic mango and pineapple peach and a touch of honey and orange zest. The wine is still very young with incredible concentration and powerful palate, ripe citrus and spice on the palate with an invigorating acidity with great depth and luscious mineral content.
An other best site to try from Knoll is the Scutt vineyard more complex and mineral.

2008 Smaragd Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Setzberg
Franz Hirtzberger is situated in Spitz in the most part of the Wachau, an area strongly influenced by the chilly winds blowing from the mountain to the north. All the Hirtzberger wines are fermented in stainless steel and aged in classic 30-50 hectoliter wooden barrels. His most celebrated vineyard site is the "Singerriedel". Honivogl is the most important Gruner Veltiner by this awesome Weingut. The Setzeberg riesling I had from 2008 was almost outstanding; gold color with  ripe sweet fruit on the nose. Pear and grapefruit with blossom and mineral note. Palate delicate fruit flavors of green apples, honey dried flower and great length with wet stone character. A remarkable Riesling with juicy acidity and great complexity.

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