lunedì 14 aprile 2014

Tre bicchieri Vinitaly 2014

I would like to thank you the Vinitaly p.r. to invite me to this amazing tasting about the selection of "Tre bicchieri" the most recognize award about the Gambero Rosso magazine in Italy.
Everything was done in the Palaexpo in the Argento room underneath the Lombardy pavilion.
Vinitaly this year was quite crowd, hundred maybe thousand people walking around and lineup for drinking wines and asking question.
This tre bicchieri event, was quite good enough room to put your glass on the table, and if you'll find the producer at the pouring it was like a feast (asking question and sharing knowledge).
On this event on my personal opinion there were some wine was great and some so and so.
So let's start with the bicchieri Raffaele:
Pian di stio 2012 fiano 
In Pasteum village the street of mozzarella there is this winery called Pasteum or San Salvatore 1988, Pasteum is  the name of the town were the winery is located from organic agriculture their Fiano grape  named Pain di Stio on 700 meter above sea level in the Cilento area. from 2012 was subtle, perfume and lovely bouquet with sapidity and minerality… Only in half bottle and a very cute shape.
Tenuta Fessina
Arcuria Graci 
 Etna Volcano in Sicily, flinty and alluvional soil with compact sand and lava with limestone present. This place make the most interesting wine from the last 10 years in Italy at this event there were quite a few. They were my best:
Tenuta Fessina in Puddara a small village in the Etna is fairly Valmur (grand cru in Chablis) style; flinty, shellfish and why not was Kimmeridge reminiscent. Citrus and sharp. A wine to aging and wait for the tertiary upcoming.
Graci Arcuria 2011 as well Carricante 100% with 6 months on less. This one was more structure and complex, mouth felling and fleshy; everything was support a great minerality and saltiness and the back of the palate. I will said more food driving, great glass of wine.
Bianco Maggiore Rallo 
Azienda agricola Rallo a must of Sicily and Marsala producer I loved this Grillo 100% ( grillo is one of the grapes of Marsala blend).
The wine is named Bianco Maggiore; we are in Marsala. The stream of the sea influence the wine they are very salty and reductive, the soil is variable but clay and sandy are the main ingredient that give to the roots of the vines to easily discovery deeper the nourishment of the mineral essence in the soil.
The nose was white flowers, citrus as grapefruit and orange zest; lime juice and cordial. Palate clean, crispy and salty. Only bush vines more than 50 years old.
Fontana Vecchia 
In the district of Taburno in Campania there are a beautiful hillside landscape there is this small producer which make simple but terroir driving Falanghina.
Only stainless and bottle quite young:
Orchard fruit, slightly citrus and classic note of herbs along some smoking. My aperitif style wine.
Villa Bucci
Verdicchio dei castelli di Jesi perhaps the  most symbolic producer . His Riserva for 2009 it is quite outstanding. Gold in color. The nose show hints of chamomile, mint, nuts, sage, thyme with diffuse minerality. Palate is complex quite aromatic green character, long lengths, back final quite salty.
18 months in barrel big to small one.

2009 Nebbiolo in Langha 
 Piero Busso Gallina in Barbaresco
Giacomo Fenocchio Bussia Barolo in Monforte D'Alba.
Paolo Scavino Bric del Fiasc in Castiglione Faletto.

The vintage 2009 in Langha by the press meant to be a not perfect one.
With this 3 example which I tried at Vinitaly i really find a gem of wine which show great freshness and approachability. Perhaps will not aging as 08 or the mythical 2010 but is a perfect to understand the potential of this king of grape variety.
Nose show violet, licorice, sour plum and bue cherry, mineral and lushy palate.
Off course different cru, soil and exposition will make some difference:
Piero Busso Gallina cru in Barbaresco show more spiciness and sour sweet fruit with undertone of limestone and clay minerality.
Giacomo Fenocchio Bussia Monforte D'alba more masculine and mineral, tar and limestone component due to the helvetian soil in Monforte.
Paolo Scavino Bric del Fiasc another tar charcoal mineral wine, close and tight with lifted flavor and crush violet and rose petal along strawberry jam quite sour and salty.
Skerk in Prepotto village in the Carso district. Vitvoska 100% macerated on skin an orange wine:
candy citrus flavor, thyme, mint and salty toasted nuts, iron and oyster shell, bees wax and honeycombe.
2011 good one.
Vigneti Masa Montecitorio 2010 and 2011 
 Vigne Marina Coppi Fausto
This two wine are the expression an interesting grape varieties made in the provence of Novara. For me remind the mineral flinty and kerosene of Riesling and the fattiness of Chardonnay.
Walter Massa is perhaps the father of this varieties.
Marina Coppi is the nouvelle vague of the Timorasso.

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