Vinitaly the most biggest wine fair in Italy. Inside it there is a space dedicated to the production of natural wine around the world.
This year I spend a couple days inside there and I did find really interesting wine and confirmed my self with some wine I really loved previously.
I' ll focus this post on the producer where present at the exhibition:
We talk about the oldest producer of Rhone Valley peoples like Raymond Trollat in S. joseph, Marie Gentaz in Cote Rotie and Noel Verset in Cornas; unfortunately this are producer not long any more in the market they retired and I'm chasing them to try. Talking with Texier i understood how important they are and how this kind of old school wine making inspiring his wine production.
This cru is on the opposite side of Brèzème with vines older than 60 years; there is no add So2.
The Cotes du Rhone "Chat fou" from 2012 was a bit restrained with soft texture. Floral and soft acidity.
The Brèzème 2012 was my personal choice, tar, flinty and crush rocks minerality. Along dark and blue fruit with farmyard and wet earth and mushroom character. Very long persistence with no presence of oak.
Texier doesn't use barrel only concrete tanks.
Talking with the producer was a very good pleasure. I understood the reason why in Italy many producer grow this international varieties such a Merlot and Cabernet rather than invest in native grapes from the beauties of the Italian peninsula. The reason is this vineyard based on international grapes varieties are old vines, and any producer want to get rid such a gem of this calibre.
However Santa Caterina works with both grapes autochthonous and international varieties with reasonable ancient technique of wine making, copper and sulphur, cover crops following by the moon phase.
The whites are mineral with salty perception, sapid, tight and expressive… Long aging and never to heavy.
The red are daily drinking, focus on freshness and of course with some aging possibility.
I love this pure expression of soil.
Talknig with Vasja, he told me the structure of his vineyard, on the top soil there is thin layer of red earth and limestone with lots of iron and fossilized sea life; that give lots of mineral content to his wines. Also told me is aim on the pruning to reaching one bottle of wine per plant. Simple guyot training system with a density of 7300 plants per hectare.
At Vivit i did tried the sparkling version of Malvasia Istriana in a orange wine style and the Terrano style, very funky and greats summer wine from my cured meat platter.
I did loved this wine called Serragghia Fanino made with Pignatello and Catarrato a white and a red varieties. So good, fragrant, crunchy and mineral. I had a reminiscent of Poulsard and a Bonnes Mares. I love this guy.