Récoltant-Manipulant Georges Laval

Champagnes from “grower-producers” (RM Champagnes) often highlight the unique expression of their specific terroir, offering distinct and individual character compared to those made by larger Maisons.

Recently, I had the privilege of tasting some remarkable grower Champagnes. 1st was the remarkable Georges Laval:

Georges Laval is a renowned producer (RM) based in the village of Cumières, in the Vallée de la Marne. Known for its dedication to organic viticulture since the 1970s, long before it became a trend in Champagne, the estate focuses on sustainable practices and minimal intervention in both the vineyard and cellar. Laval’s Champagnes are celebrated for their purity, intensity, and sense of terroir, with an emphasis on precision and freshness. The small production, mainly featuring Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, often results in cuvées with remarkable depth and minerality. Each bottle reflects the distinct characteristics of the Cumières terroir, offering a more artisanal and thoughtful expression than what is typically found from larger producers.

The village of Cumières, near Épernay

The village of Cumières is located in the heart of Champagne, on the right bank of the Marne River, just four kilometers from Épernay. The south-facing amphitheater, the distinctive soil, the chalk subsoil, and the warm microclimate have contributed to the classification of the Cumières terroir as a Premier Cru of Champagne. Georges Laval believe in the quality of the grapes, the extended vinification process, and the use of small barrels to ensure a natural clarification of the cuvées, without any fining, or filtration. From harvest to bottling, the barrels are topped up weekly. Different grape varieties and vineyard plots, initially vinified separately, are blended before bottling. The Champagne is then stored horizontally in the cellar, where it undergoes secondary fermentation in the bottle and ages on its lees for 18 to 48 months, depending on the cuvée. The riddling process is done manually on traditional racks for about thirty days before the wine is disgorged.

Garennes Extra Brut we taste is a blend of Pinot Meunier, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir, crafted from vintages spanning 2013 to 2021. The grapes come from the villages of Chambrecy, Damery, Cumières, and Hautvillers, reflecting the diverse terroirs of these areas. This wine always reflects Laval’s signature style: mineral, slightly oxidative, and full of lively energy.

Georges Laval Cumières Premier Cru offers a captivating tasting experience. On the nose, it reveals aromas of ripe orchard fruits like apple and pear, along with notes of citrus zest, white flowers, and subtle hints of brioche and almonds. On the palate, it showcases a lively minerality and fresh acidity, balanced with a creamy texture and hints of honey, hazelnut, and a touch of spice. The wine’s slightly oxidative character adds depth, while the long finish is marked by vibrant energy and a lingering salinity. This cuvée truly reflects the terroir of Cumières with precision and finesse.

Made from organic fruit since 1971 and aged in oak barrels, this cuvée features the classic three Champagne grape varieties—Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier—from the 2018 vintage. Combining organic farming and oak aging gives the wine a complex, refined character, enhancing its depth and structure.

Georges Laval’s Les Hautes Chèvres 2017 is a highly regarded single-vineyard Champagne made exclusively from Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir. The vineyard, Les Hautes Chèvres, is located in Cumières, where the vines are old and organically farmed. This cuvée is vinified and aged in oak barrels, which contributes to its depth and structure. On the nose, there are aromas of red fruits like wild strawberries and raspberries, alongside more subtle notes of citrus, herbs, and a touch of toast from the oak. On the palate, it delivers a rich, layered texture with vibrant acidity, minerality, and a slightly oxidative character, typical of Laval's style. The finish is long and persistent, with notes of ripe fruit and a saline edge that reflects the terroir.

In 2017, only 1,775 bottles of Les Hautes Chèvres were produced. Les Hautes Chèvres 2017 is a rare and complex Champagne, combining elegance with intensity, and is highly sought after by Champagne enthusiasts for its distinctive character and limited production.

The unique wine from Georges Laval is Les Longues Violes. Les Longues Violes is a massale selection planted in 1947, along with Pinot Noir vines added in 1964 and 1984. The first bottling of this single lieu-dit, made entirely from Pinot Noir, was with the 2012 vintage.

It opens with an inviting bouquet of dark fruits, such as ripe blackberries and plums, complemented by delicate floral notes and hints of herbs. There are also subtle undertones of spices and earthy characteristics that add complexity. On the palate, the wine is rich and full-bodied, showcasing a smooth texture and vibrant acidity. Flavors of dark cherries and raspberries are balanced by a minerality that reflects the unique terroir of Cumières. The oak aging contributes subtle nuances of vanilla and toast, enhancing the overall depth. The finish is long and persistent, with a refreshing lift and a touch of salinity, leaving a lingering impression of fruit and spice.

In the next post, I'll discuss the Champagne tasting featuring Benoit Dehu.

Grazie mille.