2017 in Burgundy, what Vin Vivant is doing

Press used to say 2017 in Burgundy is a vintage to enjoy: charming, open-knit, and generous, with whites that are precise and reds that are fragrant and fluid. 

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For lovers of natural wine, it's a year that gives authenticity without austerity; bottles that sing of terroir while remaining utterly drinkable.

I opened three bottles of Burgundy, all from the 2017 vintage and all from natural producers. Drinking them gave me a real sense of what this year is about and why it's worth paying attention to, especially if you love wines that speak with clarity and immediacy.

2017 might not go down as a "great" Burgundy year, but after three bottles, I can say it's one of the most enjoyable to drink right now after 8 years, and you can keep more in the cellar. It's a vintage that rewards curiosity, where the point isn't to analyze but to share, pour, and enjoy.

2017 Domaine Ballorin, Fixin "Le Chenevières"  Ballorin has always stood out in the Côte de Nuits for his commitment to organics and biodynamics, but what really matters is what's in the glass.

The 2017"Le Chenevières" from Fixin showed exactly what the vintage does best: lifted red fruits think cherry and raspberry with a soft, supple texture. It wasn't about weight or density but about finesse. The tannins were gentle, almost silky, and the wine carried that slightly wild, energetic edge that makes natural Burgundy so engaging. A bottle that reminded me why Fixin, often overlooked, can be such a great source of honest Pinot when handled with care.

2017 Maison Romane, Marsannay "Longerois" 

If Ballorin's Fixin was all about supple fruit and ease, the Marsannay from Maison Romane leaned into elegance and definition. The Longerois vineyard gives a slightly firmer backbone, and here it showed as darker fruit black cherry and plum with a touch of earth and spice. Still, the 2017 vintage character shone through: freshness, lift, and a wine that invited drinking rather than demanding patience.

 Maison Romane's style always has a poetic side, and in this bottle the balance of energy and depth felt almost effortless.

Yann Durieux, "Night Coast" 2017 

Then came the wild card. Yann Durieux has built a reputation in Burgundy's Hautes-Côtes for wines that defy convention, and "Night Coast" carried that spirit in full. Compared to the first two bottles, this was more untamed, with darker red fruit, a bit of sauvage spice, and that lifted herbal note that gives his wines their energy. 

The texture was vibrant and alive, almost electric, showing how natural winemaking can bring out an extra dimension of vitality in a vintage like 2017. It was less polished, more raw, but it was also the most memorable bottle.

Three wines, three personalities, one vintage. Ballorin's Fixin gave supple charm, Maison Romane offered finesse and poise, and Durieux brought the untamed energy of the hills. Together they painted a portrait of Burgundy 2017 as a year of openness, immediacy, and pure drinkability. Not the grandest or most structured of vintages, but one that rewards curiosity and delivers a lot of joy in the glass right now.

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