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Showing posts from 2012
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Barolo "Tradizione" and "Innovazione" Lately I have been tasting two Nebbiolo from Barolo in Piemonte: 2006 Cavallotto Bricco Boschis located in the Commune of Castiglione Falletto. Since 1948 the Cavallotto family producing mainly Nebbiolo wines with some Barbera, Dolcetto, Freisa, Grignolino e Chardonnay with the respect of the old fashion tradition of  Langhe. All their wines aging in old Slavonian barrel oak made in Italy with long maceration on skin grapes to release more polyphenol and tannin to the wine especially for the Nebbiolo grapes. Wine with great longevity. This 2006 was purple with a lovely garnet color on the edge typically of the Nebbiolo, the nose was complex mainly balsamic, herbs, mint, white pepper and licorice. Violet and strawberries where fine scents coming through all the time your put close the nose in the glass. Mouthful and succulent with a pleased tannin but very present in the palate; back of the palate the juiciness of the fru
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Christmas time a Luca Bevilacqua Yesterday i spent an afternoon with some of my friends in Italy at the home of Luca Bevilacqua a very long ago friend. We started with a rose from south of france in the north of the Alpilles in the communes Saint Remy de Provence. The producer was Domaine Milan; Henry Milan the owner of the vineyard which started in 1986 after which, took over from his father Robert who began in 1956. Henry introduced in the farming an organic approach and moved towards biodinamic and also with a great geological diversity and different climates, soon separated the estate into different vineyards like in Burgundy and create the "Clos Milan". Afinest producer of the Provence! The first, we had was a rosé from  Milan called LE JARDIN 2009 made with Grenache noire, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault and Mourvedre  The color was bright similar to red skin onoiun reflecting a delicate amber color, cherry was predominate on the nose a bit reductive w
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Juice running in contact with the skin in Friuli Italy I DRUNK IT +++++ and I gave it 34/100 while I was smoking a Sant Cristobal cigar from Cuba a the perfect humidity and select temperature... look what a match: SIMPLE I.G.T. from Friuli Venezia Giulia  a simple crazy wine full of mistake, start with the color definitely amber, unfiltered, secondary characteristic on the nose, less fruit and freshness acidity fight with the tannin... lots of shit coming in the glass, sediment, tartaric acidity.. apparently the winemaker forgot to filtered the wine, correct the acidity and didn't use any inverse osmosis filtered. Also he didn't control the temperature... what a lazy wine............ FROM THE WEBSITE OF RAW WINE FAIR In the Gorizia hills of Friuli on the border with Slovenia, winemaker Damijan Podversic makes some of the most personal - and controversial - wines made anywhere. Damijan ferments on the skins in upright wood fermenters using only natural yea
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 Artisan Wines in melbourne... Lately I have been living in Melbourne an amazing town, full of nice small places to eat and drink... I have noticed in the bench of wine bars and the wine list all over the city in the last year there is an attention in "Natural wines" or  in my way  artisan wines.... In all my excursion i had the chance to try lots of nice stuff one of that is a Georgian wine (lately) imported in Australia... Georgia is the country where the wine is born, in-fact the wine born eight thousand years ago, and perhaps the first wine produced was in a region overlooking the Black sea, which the greeks called Colchis what we call today Georgia. Still today the rocky and small republic Caucasian is an extraordinary reserve with dozen of species and  different varieties of wines. Georgia boasts an ancient culture of wine. The wine I tried was from Phesant's Tears a winery led by an american artist John H Wunderman whom fall in love with the l
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Il Pettirosso Nebbiolo ARPEPE 1999. Since the Roman times the Valtellina has been the land of very important wine. The wine is obtained by hand selecting the best bunches of grapes and then leaving them to dry on wooden lattices placed inside a dry and well-aired room, the “Fruttaio”, for at least 110 days until the end of January.  During this winter period the climate of the Valtellina does the rest of the work and thus favours the drying and shrinking of the bunches of grapes. At the end of January the grape has lost about 40% of its weight, the fruit has dried and the concentrated juice has developed unusual and very dense aromatic properties. After pressing, a slow fermentation period  follows and at least 24 months ageing and refining, first in wood and then in bottles. Valtellina Sforzato is thus a unique expression of a vine, the Nebbiolo and the area of this fascinating Alpine valley. Valtellina Superiore is always made using Nebbiolo grapes and is divided into five sub-
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Domaine Roulot Mersault 2008, a very close wine trough the nose with lots of oak but the acidity is high and  supports a terrific minerality... i wish to open it in 10 years nose is full of honey and apple with some cardamom and mango, vannilla come along with spiciness. mouthful and complex,,,, elegant with rustic notes gives and hint of the Mersault soil and terroir. Roulot is very an outstanding producers and he married the daughter of De Montille what a joke in Burgundy.... love it... thanks chardonnay
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Domaine Leon Barral After founding the domaine in 1993, which he named after his grandfather, Didier Barral decided fairly quickly that biodynamic practices were the best choice for farming his vineyards.    Deep in the heart of the Languedoc, in the Faugères appellation just outside the hamlet of Lenthéric, Domaine Léon Barral is a revolutionary winegrowing. In this Mediterranean climate in the Languedoc where the sun burn the vines this oustanding producer make one of the most exciting wine i had in the last years, his red are completely outstanding recently i had the 2007 Valiniere which is one of his premium wine, 50% whole bunch, wild yeast in contact for 30 days in concrete tanks malolactic fermentation on lees in barriques for 2 years, old oak of-course; 80% Mouvedre and 20% Shiraz. Was really austere and blow me away thanks god to give me the chance to try it. Recently i had is simple Faugeres 2009 Beautifully balanced with ripe berries, along with an intense alcohol in the
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South Rhone Valley 2011 AOC Cotes du Rhone villages Cairanne Blanc - Domaine Richaud: 29% Clairette, 26% Bourboulenc, 18% Roussanne, 12% Marsanne, 7% Viogner, 8% Grenache Blanc Marcel Richaud has been a pioneer in terms of using a natural way of winemaking in the Cairanne terroir. Member of the "Vins Naturel" in france a terrific association focus in sustainable artisan winemakers: http://www.vinsnaturels.fr This 2011 blanc is a blend of most of the native white grapes varieties in all rhone valley, mostly the time they are the blend of a Chateauneuf du Pape blanc. Cairanne is in the hearth of south Rhone valley between Rasteau and Gigondas just north of Avignone: we had  this wine   a week ago, we decanted it to get all the expression of the blend, the fruit come as early we open, grapefruit, pears aromas. The  beginning  was a bit reductive but slowly open up with a touch of anise,  pepper-berry  and some sandal. deeply length through my palate with a touch of sof
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Montagne de Reims Montagne terroir is rich in chalk a type of  limestone derived from the deposition of tiny life-forms on the bed of the sea which a millennia ago was in this area, thus give a Champagne Ardenne an extraordinary characteristic from his wine especially in Ambonnay, Trepail and Bouzy. Minerality and saltiness drive the wine from that area. Lately have been taste two different R.M. from this part of Champagne from Trepail David Leclapart and from Ambonnay Egly Ouriet. Leclapart a blanc de blanc Apotrè from Trepail David believe in the respect from life so his wine are pure and simply, the use of barrel is primordial, traditional pressing and the adding of sulphur as discreet as possible, indigenous yeast, no insemination with lactic acid bacteria. The racking and bottling are performed according to the rhythms of the moon. The malolactic fermentation is systematic because it allows to stabilize the wines and limit the use of sulfur.  Certified by Ecocert in Europe.
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Sauvignon blanc is certainly the white varieties most important and popular, along with Chardonnay in the whole world, which make some of the best white wines in the world. It is good to specify Blanc, because there are different varieties of it, mostly depending on the color of the grapes, Sauvignon Gris and Rosé (which gives the wines a good body), appreciated in the Bordeaux and Loire. There are Sauvignon Jaune, Noir, Violet and  the last is Sauvignon Vert or Sauvignonasse considered related to the Friulano or Tocai in Italy, very popular in Chile (less abstract, more rustic, less potential aging ). It is a grape with penetrating aroma, which allows the immediate recognition, the typical scents: gooseberries, nettles, moss and cat pee (characteristics that are best expressed in Sancerre and central areas of the Loire). In California, Australia and New Zealand has been tested with fermentation and aging in oak resulting in wines more complex, but with the loss of the freshness
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A pinot noir for Alsace by Albert Mann, 500 horn manure 501 horn silica 502 Yarrow 503 Chamomile 504 Stinging Nettle 505 Oak Bark 506 Dandelion 507 valerian 508 Equisetum Casuarina This number there are all the different homemade compost which Albert Mann apparently using to fertilized his vineyards to balance the atmosphere and the biodiversity in the land. Also only using "selection massale" which consist in high quality vines, to maintain diversity. After several months of fermentation, the wines remain in contact with their lees to stabilize them naturally, every thing is in according with moon for more energy and vitality. Clos de Faille is a beatiful Pinot noir from Alsace made in a beautiful manner i loved this 2009. Thanks to the Mann family
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Domaine de Trévallon Erloi Durrbach has been producing wine at Domaine de Trévallon since 1977. The vineyard was within the appellation of Coteaux des Baux de Provence, but since Eloi did not agree to plant any other varieties than the Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon which he has always vinified, he lost appellation status and was “demoted” to Vin de Pays. He has even been refused permission to expand his 15 hectare vineyard so new plantings have only become possible by uprooting old vines. His wines are now so sought after that the domain has attained almost cult status. The distinctive cubist labels were designed by Eloi's father - a friend and contemporary of Picasso.  I had this wine a few days ago and was a really while ago i didn't have it. So complex and young, a wine support with a really strong tannin lots of red fruit carry by smokiness leather and earthy characteristic. Very long deeply with length never ended, finish dry and spice 50% Cabernet and 50% Shiraz fro
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One of the most controversial producer in Langha; Bartolo Mascarello his an old fashion winery who doesn't believe in Barrique small french oak cask to ageing the nebbiolo. Only big slavonian oak or cherry cask big as well.... Also he believe the single vineyard is not a big purpose for that area in fact his wine is a blend for a different plot - a composition from the most well know area in Barolo district.. "Cannubi" " S. Lorenzo" "Ruè" "Rocche de la Morra" Incredibile perfume, real fragrance, a melange of scents, first flowers, then berries, one second raspberries, the next strawberries, then truffle followed by leather; explosive. mouth filling flavors, great class and elegance. Long live to Bartolo Mascarello wich rest in the hell after pass away not long time ago. cheers
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Mainstream Riesling in opposite hemisphere Mount Langi Ghiran passito Riesling 2004 Gold in color lots of nutty flavor balance with cured peach with green and orange citrus supported with mineral acidity and long finish.... Delicious Australian producer in state of Victoria. Trimbach Riesling 2009 Straw yellow colour, apricot, blossom citrus and gold tea, fragrant  and fruit.. in the mouth it carry by a lovely minerality with musk and orange peel simple and complex at the same time to try an oxymoron... very enjoyable for one of the most famous vineyard in Alsace Both at lunch today with king george whiting  and and australin gooat cheese with late harvest riesling
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Victoria South hemisphere  in Australia a beautiful land where the grapes find their terroir.  Since 1996 Yering Station has been at the forefront of progressive winemaking,  producing wines of quality that reflect the historic of terrior and the diversity of the beautiful Yarra Valley. I had this M.V.R. 2008 Marsanne Viogner and Roussane 14% in Alchool  lemon zest, tangerine deep and complex beautiful stony minerality, refreshing in acidity with a superb structural complexity. 2008 have a nice life in front.
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RHUM RHUM Liberation 2010 tonight after dinner i had this exceptional spirit made by a master distillery from Italy Gianni Capovilla is a new release in his line Rhum Rhum. An ageing rhum called Liberation 2010. Born from the pure juice of the sugar cane fermented, this rhum is aged in barrels where previously have been rested french white wines. Elegant, soft and rich, however the sweetness is underline the alcohol and the complexity come close to  the palate after a while the spirit rested in the glass. I was impress for the oddness. The label tell a vintage 2010 which his related to the year is bottled so Liberation.
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10 It alian red wines to try: personally that is my point of view, most of the wines they are part of my testing and emotion i got with them:  Trentino: Tenuta S. Leonardo S. Leonardo 2001 cabernet Sauvignon: combines blueberry, blackberry, graphite, dark chocolate and roast coffee bean. This displays impressive intensity on the palate while retaining noteworthy elegance. Ripe acidity gives definition to what is a deceptively powerful and fine-grained wine. A superb version of a cool-climate cabernet-consistent .  Piemonte Barolo Monfortino Riserva 2002, Giacomo Conterno Giacomo Conterno is the king of Langha his Barolo it is like a monument, old school, long maceration on the skin. 8 years matured in big Slavonian oak... The best wine in the world.                                               Trentino Alto Adige Eugenio Rosi Trentino Marzemino Poiema 2005 Eugenio Rosi is an artisan winegrower drive by the nature. His Marzemino a native g
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Fuck french wines so good and delicious, chateau Rayas at Fonsalette, Reynaud family made perhaps the best white wine in Rhone Valley Grenache blanche and Clairette so clean fine and complex... beautiful to aging.... Didier Dagenau doesn't need to be presented the name talk himself "Silex" over all the best Sauvignon in the world... Drunk them with the best sommelier in Lion Thieabault current manage the wine list a Vue de Monde Melbourne.
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Peter Schell an Australian young punk's winemaker. In his wines want purity fruit, less alcohol and more finesse without losing structure he said to Decanter June 2012. I got the purity of the fruit a bit picked or cooked, however the fruit definitely is there, the tannin smoother lifted with a beautiful tonic minerality. He said fruit purity is captured by harvesting earlier, the stems are using to inject spice and perfume, wild yeast give personality to the wine and large french oak with a long lees aging give the final complexity... Too watch .... Next one if a find a bottle would Bress, Le Grand Coq Noir by Adam Marks. good sunday afternoon with Spinifex. Salute
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Palistorti di Valgiano Bianco (50% Vermentino, 25% Trebbiano and Malvasia, 25% Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc – Vintages 2010) – 2010 was a warm vintage and the wine really carried its piercing acidity and flinty minerality through the finish. I liked it 2010. Great value...... Great wine for a winery in Lucca in Tuscany using biodynamic farming and international grapes blended with native Tuscany grapes as Vermentino and Sangiovese. A wine; between underground approach and conventional approachiness. To go with a Pop art and contemporary artist:
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superb example from the Moric line of wines by Roland Velich, a Burgundy-obsessed producer who is showing that the ancient Blaufränkisch grape (known as Lemberger in Washington State and Kekfrankos in Hungary) can produce fascinating reds in white wine country. Very similar to Pinot Noir, this Blaufränkisch has a beautiful aroma of berries and sweet spices coupled with lean, elegant fruit. This wine is alive: Taste the way it changes in the glass. Savagnin  Emanuel Houillon Arbois Pupillin   Pretty shy on opening. Given some air, this unfurls on the palate that Overnoy textural cloud that delicately saturates every nook and cranny, infusing it with fractal complexity. The veil character is strong, but manages to be subtle and finessed. Lacy yet fierce acidity cuts down the middle. So subtle and beautiful, this is a wine for contemplation Two great wines from uncommon areas in Europe Burgeland in Austra and Jura in France... to go with alternative experimenta