The Melsheimer family in Reil in Mosel.
Thorsten Melsheimer in the Mullay site |
The Mosel is marked by many steep slopes a truly cultural heroic viticulture, Melsheimer works almost exclusive with Riesling and a little bit of Pinot Noir for their sparkling production.
The production is very small a few thousands of bottles a year all done in biodynamic natural farming, the pesticide is banned for quite a long time since 1995, and in 2013 the properties has certified Demeter; apparently in the Mosel, only 3 wineries have got such a certification.
Their goal is to reach the maximum aromatic complexity at the highest level of authenticity and environmental balance, without losing the freshness and lightness of classic Mosel Riesling.
They farm on a terrific steep slope, a full block Mullay-Hofberg with a single grape variety from a really small area. In the Lower Middle Mosel: For nearly one kilometer, directly above the river Mosel, some terraces at vertiginous heights with very individual microclimates.
Mullay Hofberg site |
Red Slate Mullay Hofberg site |
Looking from Mullay Hofberg site to the Mosel River |
the Keller Cellar |
The cellar is located underground with a constant temperature and perfect humidity for the slowing process of the development of the Riesling, only ambient yeast is used in the primary fermentation; the wines fermented for several months in a very slow phase and reach something very unique in complexity and aroma profile.
We tasted some barrels which the Riesling was in a little still fermenting time (quite amazing experience). The barrels are very old, are used as a container to give micro oxidation to the process of aging; creating a fine complexity.
Thorsten explains to us his main goal is to respect the land his father gave to him, the tradition of the family and the Mosel.
the cellar is rich of old bottles from the family Caveau With Thorsten we tasted several wines |
Lentum 2015 a slow fermentation 3 years in old Fuder (1000 liter, traditional German cask). A wine with a lot of character with a mature aroma of white peach and creamy cheese texture very silky with a nice refreshing acidity vertical and horizontal in the palate.
Vade Retro 2017 this is the no S02 at any stage; the name is a bible reference which for the Latin language stand to push away the devil in this case the devil is the sulfite.
The wine shows nice oxidative character with a nutty element and bruised orchard fruit, the palate is full of tension with great complexity.
After that we tasted the Pradikatswein classification from the Mullay Hofberg 2018 the Kabinett and the Spatlese, both wines with the residual sugar, contains the nose of yellow stone fruit ripe and juicy, on the spatlese hint of honey coming up, both of them are super fresh with this fresh minerality as washed linen, slate and flinty.
2017 Auslese was a bit more complex in both side nose and palate great core of minerality with high tension energy. Thorsten makes two Barrique of fortified Riesling in a style of Port of Madeira without solera system and is honestly a great matching for creamy, stinky tasty cheese.
Fortified Riesling |
We had a really good time visiting this winery and we had a truly full immersion on the family Melsheimer tradition and the natural farming of the Mosel.
Also on the slopes of Mullay Hofberg on the side where there aren't vines planted you will find goats another one of his loves to keep biodiversity with the animal in the area.
Thanks for those beautiful people. Amazing experience.
Best
raffaele mastrovincenzo
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wine / spirit / lambic / drinker
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