Champagne Clandestin / Champagne Solemme / Champagne Ruppert-Leroy - Villers-aux-Nœuds - Essoyes - Buxières-sur-Arce and Landreville
Champagne Clandestin: The Secret Revolution in the Côte des Bar
Founded in the mid-2010s by Benoît Doussot, a Burgundian winemaker, in collaboration with Bertrand Gautherot of Vouette & Sorbée, Clandestin is a Champagne project born out of curiosity and conviction. Doussot came from Burgundy, not Champagne — and that’s exactly what makes his approach so refreshing. The name Clandestin (“hidden” or “secret”) reflects both the spirit of independence and the origin of the grapes themselves. These are not the famous, postcard-perfect slopes of Champagne, but rather lesser-known parcels tucked away in the southern reaches of the region, the Côte des Bar — particularly around Buxières-sur-Arce and Landreville. Champagne Clandestin stands as a quiet rebellion — one that values terroir, transparency, and authenticity above the polished glamour of the grandes maisons.
The Philosophy: Natural by Nature
Clandestin’s vineyards are farmed organically and biodynamically, reflecting a deep respect for the environment. The work in the vineyard is minimal, careful, and guided by observation rather than intervention. In the cellar, the same philosophy applies:
- Hand-harvested grapes
- Indigenous yeasts
- Fermentation and ageing in old oak barrels
- Zero sulfur and zero or low dosage
Doussot’s Champagnes are not “made” as much as they are revealed. They’re alive, structured, and mineral — wines that speak of place rather than process.
The Land: Cool Slopes and Kimmeridgian Bones
Unlike the classic south-facing vineyards that chase ripeness, Clandestin focuses on cooler, west- and north-facing exposures. The goal is simple but radical: to let nature dictate the rhythm. Slower ripening brings tension, nuance, and purity — all essential to expressing the true character of Champagne’s chalk and limestone soils. These soils are Kimmeridgian limestone, rich in marine fossils — the same geological foundation that defines parts of Chablis. Doussot treats each micro-parcel like a distinct voice, mapping the terroirs and vinifying them separately. The result is a mosaic of character and texture that tells the story of the Aube with precision and restraint.
For wine lovers drawn to natural or low-intervention styles, Clandestin offers something rare: the purity of terroir wrapped in the precision of méthode champenoise. It’s Champagne stripped of ornament — just chalk, fruit, time, and quiet mastery.
A Hidden Treasure
Production remains tiny, and bottles are increasingly sought after. This is a wine built more for terroir expression and gastronomic pairing than for simply “easy celebration” sipping. The zero dosage style means it will show more austerity, minerality and textural details.
Champagne Solemme: Nature, Harmony, and the Human Touch
Based in Villers-aux-Nœuds, just south of Reims in the Montagne de Reims, Champagne Solemme is a grower-producer that beautifully bridges tradition and conscious innovation. Under the guidance of Olivier Langlais, the estate has become a quiet yet powerful voice for sustainability and authenticity in Champagne.
When Langlais took over the family vineyards in 2010, he began transforming them according to organic and biodynamic principles, earning certification and building an ecosystem that thrives on biodiversity. The vines—planted primarily to Pinot Meunier, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir—grow on chalky, clay-limestone soils that lend both tension and depth to the wines. Every decision at Solemme is guided by the rhythm of nature. Cover crops, composts, and natural infusions nourish the vines, while lunar cycles and minimal soil disturbance help maintain harmony in the vineyard. In the cellar, Langlais works with native yeasts, gentle vinification, and minimal dosage, allowing the terroir of Villers-aux-Nœuds to speak clearly through each cuvée. The resulting champagnes are pure, vibrant, and texturally refined, with aromas of citrus blossom, pear, brioche, and crushed chalk. They reveal both the precision of careful craftsmanship and the soulful warmth of a wine deeply connected to its land. The mousse is fine, the palate mineral and energetic, finishing with a signature saline freshness.
For Langlais, Champagne Solemme is more than a domaine — it’s an expression of balance between man, nature, and wine. His bottles reflect not only the richness of the Montagne de Reims terroir but also a belief that great wine begins with respect: respect for the earth, for time, and for the people who tend the vines.
Champagne Ruppert-Leroy: Biodynamics and Terroir in the Côte des Bar
In the southernmost reaches of Champagne, where the Côte des Bar unfolds in a patchwork of limestone-rich soils, Champagne Ruppert-Leroy has quietly established itself as a reference for artisanal, terroir-driven sparkling wines. Located in the village of Essoyes, this family-run estate combines history, philosophy, and biodynamic viticulture to craft Champagnes that are as expressive as they are elegant.
The story begins in the 1970s with Gérard Ruppert, a philosopher and sheep farmer, who planted the first Chardonnay vines in the area. Decades later, his daughter Bénédicte Ruppert and her husband Emmanuel Leroy took the reins, transforming the vineyards into a biodynamic showcase. By 2014, the estate earned Demeter certification, cementing its commitment to sustainable, low-intervention viticulture.
Spanning approximately four hectares, the vineyards are planted with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir across three distinctive parcels: Fosse-Grely, Les Cognaux, and Martin-Fontaine. Each plot contributes a unique signature to the wines. Fosse-Grely offers a vibrant blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay; Les Cognaux, dedicated exclusively to Pinot Noir, delivers deep fruit intensity with a striking mineral backbone; Martin-Fontaine brings finesse and elegance to the portfolio.
Ruppert-Leroy’s winemaking philosophy is simple yet meticulous: respect the terroir, respect the fruit. Grapes are hand-harvested, fermentation relies on native yeasts, and the wines are bottled as Brut Nature—with no added dosage—highlighting purity, texture, and minerality. Extended lees aging, often over 18 months, adds subtle complexity, from creamy almond notes to delicate brioche aromas, without masking the wine’s identity.
The Champagnes of Ruppert-Leroy are immediately recognizable for their vibrant acidity, mineral tension, and elegant mousse. Aromas of green apple, citrus, and soft red berries intertwine with a saline undertone that mirrors the limestone-rich soils of Essoyes. Each bottle is a snapshot of its vineyard and vintage, offering both immediacy and the potential for graceful aging.
It’s a Champagne for connoisseurs: restrained, precise, and expressive, reflecting the careful balance between human hand and natural environment.
Ruppert-Leroy offers a compelling narrative in every glass—a story of soil, care, and time.
Ruppert-Leroy Fosse-Grely Brut Nature
Vintage: 2020
Grapes: 50% Pinot Noir, 50% Chardonnay
Terroir: Fosse-Grely vineyard, Essoyes, Côte des Bar
Vinification: Hand-harvested, fermented in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts, aged sur lie for 6 months, and disgorged after 2 years. No added sulfites or dosage.
Bright citrus notes of lemon and orange zest, complemented by ripe stone fruits like peach and nectarine, and a smoking element. A harmonious blend of citrus fruits, orchard fruits, and a touch of red berries. Vibrant and refreshing, with a creamy mouthfeel.
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