Fuck SO2

On Thursday 19 December in Abruzzo we did a tasting dinner with Pizza and Vin Nature called 

FUCK SO2

SO2 stands for 

Sulfur dioxide which is used in enology - for its contemporary antioxidant and antiseptic actions. When using sulfur dioxide, it is advisable to know that a part of this gas combines with some components of the must in the wine. Despite these positive effects in the wine, it should be remembered that the use of it must be, in any case, limited, both for the negative effects on health and also for organoleptic reasons. The maximum quantities allowed in wine-making are established by specific laws in force in each country. In the European Union, the maximum limits allowed are 160 mg / l for red wines and 210 mg / l for white and rosé wines. Since sulfur dioxide has toxic effects on the body, the World Health Organization (WHO) has defined the maximum daily dose is 0.7 mg/kg of body weight, while the lethal dose is defined in 1.5 g / kg of body weight. In this regard, it should be remembered that every subject is predisposed and sensitive to sulfur dioxide, this can be a reason for migraines as well as other issues.

In enology, sulfur dioxide is used from the earliest stages of wine production, starting from must to bottling.

Is function is to act as an antioxidant and therefore to protect must and wine from excessing oxygen which would oxidize the color, also the nuance and the typicality of modern-day drinkers; too much oxygen will give oxy element resembling the Marsala or Madeira character. If this accentuated characteristic happening can ruin the pleasure of drinking.

In the evening FUCK SO2 we only drunk wines without added sulfur also from organic farming and no intervention in the winemaking; it should be explained that in grapes as in many other types of foods there are naturally doses of free sulfur dioxide and these act as antioxidants and help in this case the evolution of wine.

As explained above for contemporary enology, oxygen seems to be an enemy because it changes many aspects in the glass, not in line with the style people as learning to drink nowadays. From my point of view, not always but wines without added sulfite seem much more interesting and not boring as conventional wines. Odors of minerals such as iron, wet rocks, humus, manure, dry leaves, wet earth, etc... seem to be more present in natural winemaking which gives me more enjoyment.

In natural winemaking, oxygen is a kind of conductor which helps to strengthen the vinified mass in the primary fermentation and make it strong towards bottling of course if only ambient yeast is used.

All the wines we taste were aged in neutral containers fiberglass, cement, steel and exhausted woods. All had a sincere terroir experience.

Domaine des Grottes, Grange Masson - BEAUJOLAIS

They arrived in Beaujolais after finishing their economics studies. He already had a son who wanted to grow up in the countryside and had no particular attachment to Paris, where he had grown up. "In a short time, he had two other children and moved to the Beaujolais countryside." Once he took over the job, Romaine takes an eccentric work path from viticulture to winemaking. The Domaine des Grottes is located in the village of St Etienne des Ouillieres, south of Brouilly. The vineyards cover an area of approximately 7.5 hectares, all certified by Demeter since 2007, are located in the heart of the Beaujolais-Villages appellation but the wines are downgraded to Vin de France. The vines are treated as little as possible (Romain does not even use copper), while instead extensive use is made of biodynamic preparations of which many are based on nettle. Due to the very low density of plants (about 4000 plants per hectare) and the very low yield (12hl / ha), only a few thousand bottles are produced per year.

First harvest: 2002

Surface: 7 ha

Bottles Produced: 12.000 / 15.000

2018 Dry Paradise Gamay Pet Nat
Almost no bubble with a very bright pink translucent color, sour acidity almost a lambic taste. Sour raspberry with crush wet stone super energetic and vertical palate a razor...

 BAINBRIDGE AND CATHCART Chavagnes (Anjou) - LOIRA

Toby Bainbridge knows his wife Julie Cathcart on his family's farm in Oklahoma when

she was still studying agriculture. After a few years, the couple moved to France, in the valley

in the Loire where Toby starts working for an artisan / organic producers before buying his 8.5

hectares (two of which are still not productive) to grow Cabernet Franc, Grolleau and Chenin Blanc.

Toby has a strong inclination to biodynamic and therefore protects the soil, with a kind of wildlife, and true respect for the environment surrounded himself.

His goal in Chavagnes Les Eaux is to make the wine more expressive, without artifice. All the wine,

are classified as Vin de France. Toby and Julie's wines are clean, lively, delicious. They bottle them in transparent glass with a simple crown cap, no cork and are made to be drunk immediately.

First harvest: 2007

Surface: 6 ha

Bottles Produced: 25,000  

2018 Cuvee Highway. 8 Cabernet Franc
Cabernet color deep and intense with dark fruit and capsicum element, chocolate, and coffee bean.
Nice refreshing acidity with dumb earth and humus palate.  

 LES VIGNES DE BABASS, Chanzeaux - LOIRE

Sébastien Dervieux (better known as Babass) is perhaps one of the most iconic wine producers in the world of natural wine, as well as a frequent guest of the most important trade fairs in the sector (he is also co-organizer of "Les Anonymes" in Angers). Babass spends most of his time in his vineyards. Winemaking is extraordinarily simple. The wines are made in a partially open shed, always exposed to the wind, weather and temperature changes.

In the winter the cellar is often below zero, in the summer not much above 20°.

Babass lets the wine go its own way, intervenes as little as possible and naturally adds nothing (not even a gram of metabisulfite), and does not take anything away. He likes to call himself a "contemplateur de fermentations spontanées".

Babass was born in the region, he was initially a rock musician. In the late nineties with Patrick Desplat he started Domaine Les Griottes, one of the first hard-core experiences of natural winemaking in the Loire Valley along with other big names like Claude Courtois, Jean-Pierre Robinot and Olivier Cousin. In 2010 Pat and Babass decided to go their own way and divide the Domaine. Today Babass has just under 3 hectares of vineyards planted in Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Franc, and Grolleau. 

First harvest: 2010

Surface: 2.5 ha

Bottles Produced: 8,000

2018 Groll n 'roll Grolleau
Tres Naturel dump color, lots of earthy element with a hint of brett, black mushroom as shiitake. Refreshing with high acidity, mushroom, and wet earth on the palate. So good...

LILIAN BAUCHET Mogneneins - BEAUJOLAIS

Lilian and Sophie Bauchet are among those of us who have lived other lives before finding their passion.

To abandon daily work and to go in search of a dream following one's ideal requires much dedication and faith. Lilian's passion is so great that anyone who meets him and tastes his wines all he can do is become passionate about it.

The Domaine extends over about 6 hectares all in the Lancié area, between Fleurie and Morgon. Viticulture is decided-manual mind and the role of vegetation is very reasoned, for example, the choice of not topping and leave the leaf wall very high in order to alternate sun and shade for more homogeneous ripening. In the cellar the vinification is strict without anything, SO2 included.

First harvest: 2006

Surface: 6 ha

Bottles Produced: 20,000

2018 Amor Fati Gamay
A Gamay... more a Burgundy style, lots of dark fruit with the oaky element as a sweet spice and nice length. A little bit sweet in the palate but the good structure, almost a serious wine.  

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raffaele mastrovincenzo
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